Rekondo
Perched on the scenic Paseo de Igeldo in San Sebastian, Rekondo is more than just a restaurant; it’s a living testament to Basque heritage. Founded in 1964 by former matador Txomin Rekondo, this family-owned establishment has become a beloved local institution and dining destination for visitors around the world. Specialty dishes star traditional and modern Basque cuisine.
The warm day was ideal for dining on Rekondo’s charming patio, where dappled sunlight filtered through the majestic old trees. Surrounded by a lively mix of locals and visitors, the lovingly restored farmhouse was traditional and contemporary, warm and elegant.
We ordered glasses of sparkling wine to start while Ron thumbed through the massive wine list. Fortunately, Sommelier Alejandro Hernández patiently guided him to a perfect crisp white from Rioja. Little did we know at the time that we were selecting from one of the finest and oldest private collections of wine in the world.
Lourdes, the daughter of the founder, shared stories about her father, once Rekondo’s head chef. She grew up in his kitchen, learning the traditions of Basque cuisine he cherished. After college, she joined him and quickly became a skilled restaurateur.
As time went on, she took on more roles, like managing the restaurant and creating new wine blends. Despite her growing responsibilities, her bond with her father remains strong. They love spending time together, talking about food and wine. Rekondo, under their leadership, has become a place of both tradition and innovation.
The combination of her modern perspective and her father’s classic approach forged a collaboration that blended old and new. Lourdes suggested introducing a tasting menu that would showcase the restaurant’s evolution and showcase contemporary twists to classic dishes.
Iñaki Arrieta, a dapper, fiercely talented chef, ushered in a new chapter for the restaurant. He’d worked in some of the world’s most prestigious kitchens. The allure of Rekondo’s tradition and the opportunity to work alongside Txomin brought him to San Sebastian. The trio formed a dynamic force. Txomin represented Basque tradition, Lourdes brought innovation, and Iñaki added creativity and new flavors to the restaurant.
We happily agreed to Lourdes’ gracious offer to select items off the menu that best represent the restaurant today. Lunch was on, and Lourdes presented dish after amazing dish, explaining each one’s roots and twists. They kept on coming until we waved the white flag of the fully sated. Each dish was exceptionally conceived, prepared, and artfully plated. The chef’s use of texture, color, and flavors was masterful.
Our first offering, a single fried shrimp, with two small croquettes, was typical – extraordinary examples of Basque country favorites. The perfectly crisp crust blanketed a firm sweet shrimp, while the croquettes brimmed with a silky savory bechamel.
Our next course, a recent menu addition, artfully showcased contrasting flavors and colors. The carpaccio of red prawns was lightly cured to emphasize the prized seafood’s delicate sweetness and tender, almost melt-in-your-mouth texture. A lime and pistachio vinaigrette, colorful edible flowers, sprigs of mint, and bits of grape and melon created a dish almost too pretty to eat.
Many mouth-watering dishes followed including classics like rice with clams and grilled cod with garlicky pil pil sauce. Each was delicious, including two Basque-country favorites. One was Txangurro a la Donostiarra, a local spider crab served in its wicked-looking shell. Created by a Basque chef in the early 20th century, this palate-pleasing dish resembles a creamy crab cake. There are many versions of this local favorite, but Rekondo’s was spot on.
Another standout was the elegant Russian salad. Throughout Spain, this creamy favorite is a fixture on menus. It’s named after its creator, Lucien Olivier, a Belgian-born chef who worked in Moscow in the 1860s. The Spanish version is like potato salad with tuna. At Rekondo, lobster is the seafood of choice. Comfort food made extraordinary.
We finished the meal with a sampling of Rekondo’s classic desserts. But there was one more surprise to come, that made this dining experience unforgettable. Chef Arrieta stopped by the table and invited us to tour the wine cellar.
In our travels, we have visited many grand wine cellars, but what greeted us here was jaw-dropping: Room after room filled with collections of the world’s finest wines. Txomin Rekondo’s treasure trove of nearly 130,000 bottles spans geographies and decades, including prized vintages from storied vineyards of Bordeaux and Burgundy to rising stars of Spain and Italy. The array is an oenophile’s dream.
By meticulously controlling the environment, the cellar ensures that every bottle reaches its peak potential. Rekondo’s dedication to preservation and wine pairing has made it a top destination for wine lovers worldwide. In all, Rekondo is a one-of-a-kind experience in a food obsessed town. Be sure it’s among your San Sebastian dining musts.
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