Our first port on our Azamara grand voyage was Koper, Slovenia. We had already been wowed by Slovenia’s people, beautifully preserved towns, and natural beauty during an extensive tour in 2017. (Our cover story on our experiences can be accessed with this link. https://www.winedineandtravel.com/wdt/slovenia/mobile/ So we were eager for a return visit to this often-overlooked country in the shadow of mega-popular Croatia.
The heart and soul of Slovenia is its capital, Ljubljana. We had stayed there on our previous visit but didn’t have time to fully explore the city. We jumped at the opportunity to take a ship’s shore excursion and see if it was as remarkable as we remembered.
The 7-hour shore excursion offered us and 40 or so fellow cruisers a perfect blend of scenic beauty and rich history. Unexpectedly, we also found ourselves in the midst of major marathon wending through the downtown. As a result, our bus couldn’t drop us in the city center. We instead began with a leisurely boat ride along the Ljubljanica River, gliding under the city’s iconic bridges.
The Triple Bridge stood out with its unique three-pronged design linking the historical old town to modern Ljubljana, while the Dragon Bridge, adorned with four fierce dragon sculptures, gave us a glimpse into the city’s legends. We learned that some bridges, like the Butcher’s Bridge, were named after the shopkeepers who once lined them. From their stalls on the bridge, butchers toss unwanted remnants into the river, creating a foul-smelling stream. Eventually, they were forced to move their operations farther downstream, much to the relief of the city, though not so much for the villages downriver. The old Butcher’s bridge was renamed the Cobbler’s Bridge for obvious reasons.
As we floated along, the colorful facades of Ljubljana’s charming buildings and leafy riverbanks provided a perfect backdrop. The peaceful pace of the boat allowed us to take in the ambiance of Slovenia’s capital, often praised as one of Europe’s greenest cities due to its pedestrian-friendly zones and abundance of public spaces.
After the boat ride, we embarked on a walking tour through the heart of Ljubljana’s old town. The timing couldn’t have been better—the weather was cool but sunny, and the trees and shrubs along the riverbanks sparkled with vibrant autumn colors. Our guide led us straight to Prešeren Square, where the pink Franciscan Church loomed large in the background. But all eyes were on the statue of Slovenia’s greatest poet, France Prešeren.
Prešeren, born in 1800, is widely regarded as the father of Slovenian poetry. His work in the country’s native language not only shaped Slovenian literature but also became a symbol of national pride during the country’s long struggle under foreign rulers. One of his most famous poems, Zdravljica (A Toast), even provided the lyrics for Slovenia’s national anthem.
As we stood in the square, our guide recounted the controversy that surrounded Prešeren’s statue when it was installed in 1905. Created by sculptor Ivan Zajec, the statue features Prešeren standing below a nude female figure, symbolizing an artist’s muse. At the time, many conservative citizens, especially the Franciscan Church clergy, were scandalized. Despite the protests, that included covering the nude in clothes, the statue remained unchanged, and over time, it became one of Ljubljana’s most cherished landmarks.
Leaving Prešeren Square, we continued our walk past the Town Hall and up toward Ljubljana Castle, perched on a hill overlooking the city. Our guide explained how the castle had watched over the town since medieval times, surviving centuries of political upheavals and foreign rule, from the Romans to the Habsburgs Monarchy, and later, communist Yugoslavia. It wasn’t until 1991 that Slovenia gained its independence – feat cherished and guarded by all.
We stopped for lunch at a traditional restaurant in the city center. Entering the quirky, medieval-themed dining rooms felt like a step back in time.We enjoyed a hearty meal of local specialties, including savory wild mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, and custard apple strudel with whipped cream.
During some free time after lunch, Mary and I wandered the river-side streets, which were buzzing with both locals and visitors. The energy of the city was contagious. It was especially delightful to watch many of the just-finished marathoners, proudly walking with friends and family, race numbers still pinned to their chests. Their sense of accomplishment and joy added so much to the charm of our afternoon.
Our excursion reaffirmed our admiration for this often-overlooked gem. But this day wasn’t over. In the evening we would enjoy a performance by one of Slovenia’s most famous institutions during our first Az-Amazing Evening.
