Great Roman Dining: With a Little Help From My Friends

We have many ways to choose restaurants when we travel. Typically, we rely on YouTube, TripAdvisor, and Google Maps for ratings, menu info, hours, and more. Once you learn how to sift through these sources—separating the wheat from the chaff—you can feel confident that your selection will be a good one. (Of course, every eatery has its off days. There’s no crystal ball for those.)

However, the one source we value most is recommendations from friends who have personally experienced a place and were impressed enough to pass along the tip. This strategy was perfectly validated a few days ago when Mary and I made our pilgrimage to the Trevi Fountain.

Steve Schlichtenmyer, my former abstract art teacher, is passionate about everything Italian. He’s spent more time in Italy than we have in Spain—and we’ve followed his travels for a few years now. So when we posted about a nice meal we had at Mimi e Coco, Steve chimed in with a recommendation: “I love Mimi e Coco, but my absolute favorite is Mastrociccia on Via del Governo Vecchio, very close to Piazza Navona (a must-visit). The food is terrific, and the owners are incredibly nice. Be sure to sit indoors.”

Fortunately, Mastrociccia was sort of on the way from our neighborhood in Trastevere to the Trevi Fountain, so we made a reservation and set out on a walk that totaled almost 6 miles roundtrip. As soon as we crossed the river and entered the unfamiliar neighborhood, we knew we were on the right track. It had the spirit of Trastevere, but with upscale retailers and restaurants—and a lot less graffiti.

The restaurant’s red façade was impressive, with colorful flowers and black-and-gold signage. I took a photo of it even before realizing it was our destination. We were warmly greeted and shown to our table. I needed a break from pizza and pasta, so I ordered a steak, while Mary opted for our favorite pasta dish, vongole. For a starter, we ordered panzanella, a salad with stale bread, tomatoes, and artichokes that’s not easy to get right. A bottle of very good Pinot Grigio from Friuli accompanied the meal.

Steve was spot on—the vongole was spectacular, full of sweet baby clams in their shells, swimming in a flavorful broth of olive oil, lemon, and clam juice. My large steak was perfectly cooked, tender, and flavorful.

The panzanella was the big surprise. At first, I thought they’d made a mistake—it looked like a beautifully plated seafood salad, ringed with red and yellow cherry tomatoes. The server assured me it was correct. It was stunning, not only in appearance but in the mix of fresh flavors and textures.

Amazingly, the prices were affordable. My steak was $24, Mary’s vongole was $18, the salad about $12, and the wine around $20. The service was friendly and professional.

Mastrociccia offered the complete package. As we looked around the room, we saw happy faces and lively conversations. It was the kind of environment—and meal—that creates lasting memories.

So the next time someone gives you an informed tip on where to go or dine, take note. And a big thank you to Steve! By the way, we’ll be in Florence soon—any suggestions?

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