Page 93 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL WINTER SPRING 2022
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discovered that a stocky Quarter Horse and a     Jody in the poolside hot tub.
            stocky western saddle were stretching parts of     Alisal Ranch began in 1843 as Rancho Nojoqui ,
            me that hadn’t been splayed out like that in     a 13,500-acre cattle ranch granted to Raimondo
            maybe 50 years. It was like sitting in a chair   Carrillo by the then-Mexican government. After
            designed by the Spanish Inquisition. Standing up  several ownership changes the ranch diversified
            in the stirrups was the only relief. Trying to look  to crops and the raising of thoroughbred horses.
            behind me? Ha!                                                          A century after the
              I’m fairly certain it                                                 original land grant,
            was a beautiful October                                                 Charles Pete Jackson Jr.,
            morning and I’m pretty                                                  bought the place and, in
            sure the ancient, twisted                                               1946, added a new
            live oaks were right out                                                business: a summer
            of a National                                                           dude ranch with a
            Geographic photo shoot.                                                 maximum capacity of 30
            But it was hard to focus.                                               guests.
              “That’s the Santa Ynez                                                  Alisal has remained in
            Valley,” I heard Mark say,                                              the Jackson family ever
            as we reached a hilltop                                                 since. Still boasting
            vantage point. “See that                                                10,500 acres and a
            far side? That’s where                                                  working cattle
            Michael Jackson’s                                                       operation, its grown in
            Neverland Ranch was.”                                                   guest capacity – it can
              OK, but can you see                                                   now handle more than
            the nearest emergency                                                   200 – and stature. Just
            room from here?                                                         this year, USA Today’s
              By the time the 12-                                                   readers named Alisal the
            hour. . .I mean two-hour                                                top “Destination Resort”
            ride was done I didn’t                                                  in the country and
            dismount Bear, I slid off                                               Conde Nast puts it
            him and painfully                                                       among the 10 best
            bowlegged my way back to Alisal’s non-           destinations in Southern California
            equestrian zone.                                   Early on it was discovered by Hollywood’s
              I had the rest of the day ahead of me and a    glitterati. In 1949, Clark Gable was married in
            myriad options: Two 18-hole golf courses, six    Alisal’s library building; Doris Day was a frequent
            tennis courts, a swimming pool surrounded by     visitor. Recent stars include regular Kevin
            lounge chairs and umbrella-shaded tables, a      Costner, had who visited with his family just a
            horseshoe pit, a bocce ball court, a basketball  month before we arrived.
            court, a croquet lawn, billiard and ping-pong      Adding to its fame, Alisal’s adjacent property –
            tables, a fitness room, a library, a bar, and a 100-  Rancho del Cielo -- was owned by Ronald Reagan.
            acre spring-fed lake for boating and fishing. The  When he was president, del Cielo became the
            day’s organized activities included an archery/air  “Western White House” and Alisal housed
            rifle class, yoga, a pickleball clinic, some kind of  overflow secret service personnel. “Even the
            arts and crafts lesson and, if I lasted that long, a  staff were taking pictures of the scene,” Ron
            5:00 p.m. wine tasting.                          Beardsley, Alisal’s bell captain, told me.
              Forget all that. My first stop was a massage at  Beardsley had eyed me suspiciously as I was
            Alisal’s spa. Second stop: an hour-long soak with  headed to the pool, a camera over my shoulder
                                                             and a reporter’s pad in my pocket. “Because we



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