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discovered that a stocky Quarter Horse and a Jody in the poolside hot tub.
stocky western saddle were stretching parts of Alisal Ranch began in 1843 as Rancho Nojoqui ,
me that hadn’t been splayed out like that in a 13,500-acre cattle ranch granted to Raimondo
maybe 50 years. It was like sitting in a chair Carrillo by the then-Mexican government. After
designed by the Spanish Inquisition. Standing up several ownership changes the ranch diversified
in the stirrups was the only relief. Trying to look to crops and the raising of thoroughbred horses.
behind me? Ha! A century after the
I’m fairly certain it original land grant,
was a beautiful October Charles Pete Jackson Jr.,
morning and I’m pretty bought the place and, in
sure the ancient, twisted 1946, added a new
live oaks were right out business: a summer
of a National dude ranch with a
Geographic photo shoot. maximum capacity of 30
But it was hard to focus. guests.
“That’s the Santa Ynez Alisal has remained in
Valley,” I heard Mark say, the Jackson family ever
as we reached a hilltop since. Still boasting
vantage point. “See that 10,500 acres and a
far side? That’s where working cattle
Michael Jackson’s operation, its grown in
Neverland Ranch was.” guest capacity – it can
OK, but can you see now handle more than
the nearest emergency 200 – and stature. Just
room from here? this year, USA Today’s
By the time the 12- readers named Alisal the
hour. . .I mean two-hour top “Destination Resort”
ride was done I didn’t in the country and
dismount Bear, I slid off Conde Nast puts it
him and painfully among the 10 best
bowlegged my way back to Alisal’s non- destinations in Southern California
equestrian zone. Early on it was discovered by Hollywood’s
I had the rest of the day ahead of me and a glitterati. In 1949, Clark Gable was married in
myriad options: Two 18-hole golf courses, six Alisal’s library building; Doris Day was a frequent
tennis courts, a swimming pool surrounded by visitor. Recent stars include regular Kevin
lounge chairs and umbrella-shaded tables, a Costner, had who visited with his family just a
horseshoe pit, a bocce ball court, a basketball month before we arrived.
court, a croquet lawn, billiard and ping-pong Adding to its fame, Alisal’s adjacent property –
tables, a fitness room, a library, a bar, and a 100- Rancho del Cielo -- was owned by Ronald Reagan.
acre spring-fed lake for boating and fishing. The When he was president, del Cielo became the
day’s organized activities included an archery/air “Western White House” and Alisal housed
rifle class, yoga, a pickleball clinic, some kind of overflow secret service personnel. “Even the
arts and crafts lesson and, if I lasted that long, a staff were taking pictures of the scene,” Ron
5:00 p.m. wine tasting. Beardsley, Alisal’s bell captain, told me.
Forget all that. My first stop was a massage at Beardsley had eyed me suspiciously as I was
Alisal’s spa. Second stop: an hour-long soak with headed to the pool, a camera over my shoulder
and a reporter’s pad in my pocket. “Because we
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