Page 104 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2019 PORTUGAL

In the hotel lobby, I took an elevator down
to the hammam area, and as soon as I entered,
I could feel its ancient roots. I walked down
stone walkways and stairs, passing through
wooden doors so low that I had to duck, a re-
minder that people were shorter three cen-
turies ago. In a courtyard, a giant, 300-year-
old dome with small holes dotting its surface
let sunlight into the hammam room.
After I changed into a terry cloth robe and a
paper thong, an attendant led me to the warm
and steamy treatment room. There, Sara, a
young Ethiopian woman guided me to a heated
marble slab. I lay down wearing only the paper
thong, but it was just Sara and me, so I felt
comfortable. Sara began by gently scrubbing
me all over with a loofa.
She rinsed me with warm water, using an
antique metal basin to scoop the water from a
trough. The ritual felt right, slow, and soft.
Sara then scrubbed me with a soft cloth,
warm water and soap that made bubbles; it
felt like being in a bubble bath without the
bathtub. As she rinsed me again with warm
water from the antique basin, I noticed how
she took her time, moving back and forth, to
the trough with the basin, the sound of her
scooping up the warm water, her footsteps
back to me and then the warmth as she poured
the water onto me. The rhythm created a
soothing pattern that allowed me to slow down
and relax.
As she shampooed my hair, I looked up at
the 300-year-old dome with its holes letting in
sunlight, just as so many others had done be-
fore me, through the centuries. Sara made
more trips to the trough with the basin, for
more warm water to rinse out the shampoo.
She washed my face, then poured the last
warm water rinse, all over. When I stood up,
she gave me a final, refreshing, cool water Top: Antique metal basin to scoop the water
rinse. As she rubbed me dry with a thick, soft from a trough
towel, I felt buffed, polished, sparkly clean Bottom: The 10 Karaköy Hotel, Istanbul. Photo
and relaxed. provided by the 10 Karaköy Hotel.
Right:-Fountains in the courtyard of the hammam.

104 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE WINTER/SPRING 2024