Page 162 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2019 PORTUGAL

erations, including the tasting room, restau- story library of all Tokara vintages, including
rant, and family-friendly deli, are housed in a magnums and more.
glass, steel, stone, and concrete structure that Our table in Tokara’s dining room per-
embraces the majestic landscape while hosting fectly captured panoramas through floor-to-
all the necessities of a modern wine enterprise. ceiling windows as
Plus, the design by well as walls draped
Van Bijon and Visser with rare “Porter Se-
Architects is an ideal ries” tapestries - 5 in
showcase, inside and total - by world
out, for the Ferrerias’ renowned Johannes-
dynamic, often burg-born artist
provocative, collection William Kentridge.
of South African art. Our farm-to-table
At the winery en- multi-course lunch
trance, Marco Cian- paired with Tokara
fanelli’s laser-cut wines drew from
stainless steel grape dishes by Carolize
vines - their cordons Coetzee, who already
sprouting enology has earned accolades
terms - set the stage as South Africa’s most
for the art displayed inside. Prints, fiber art, promising new chef since joining Tokara in
sculptures, handwoven baskets, paintings, and 2018. Service was unhurried and friendly; we
more catch the eye throughout the building, especially enjoyed Sommelier Jaap Henk
even down the hallway to the loo. Koelewijn’s humorous patter and the artful
General manager Karl Lambour estimates cooking and plating by sous chef Sean-Lloyd
more than 500 artworks are on site, including van Buisbergen and the rest of the kitchen
dozens around the estate that he pointed out staff.
as we drove to viewpoints above the steep Writing this, I can almost taste some of my
vineyards. One unforgettable work sits in a menu favorites - fragrant fennel topped beet
grassy circle outside the Ferrerias’ tree-shel- root carpaccio, savory cured ocean trout with
tered home. Created on site of granite and watermelon and - oh yes, the venison-like
stainless steel is Angus Taylor’s massive sculp- springbok loin with its delicious jus rendered
ture of “Dionysus.” The Greek god couldn’t be with estate-grown herbs and fruit. Of course
more at home on this land that pays great we saved room for dessert - a refreshing fruit
homage to his realms of wine and good times. crumble and pineapple gelato matched with
Before shepherding us to lunch in Tokara Tokara’s honey-gold Late Harvest Sauvignon
restaurant, Karl shared a tasting in the board- Blanc.
room that began with bubbly before moving Before piling back into an Uber for the
on to single vineyard reds and whites and the drive home - and a nap (!), We purchased
estate’s rightfully acclaimed Director’s Reserve some Tokara wines to take on our cruise, in-
Bordeaux blends. He also wrestled open the cluding their very quaffable rose, our warm-
antique iron door, pried from a shipwreck, weather favorite. As you might expect, none
that guards the entrance to the winery’s two- made it on board.

162 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE WINTER/SPRING 2024