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Queen Emma was the wife of King Kamehameha
                                                              IV, but after the death of the king and their only child,
                                                              and her unsuccessful bid to become Hawaii’s ruling
                                                              monarch, Emma retired to the Lawa‘i Valley, where
                                                              she lived in a traditional Hawaiian house overlook-
                                                              ing the deep gorge. It was Emma who started the
                                                              valley on its path to becoming a botanical treasure
                                                              trove, as she planted rose apples, Alexandrian laurel,
                                                              mangoes, bamboo, pandanus, ferns, bougainvillea –
                                                              a rich horticultural array – on the cliffs. Some of her
                                                              plants survive to this day.
                                                                 Starting in 1876 Emma leased part of the Lawa‘i
                                                              valley to Duncan McBryde, which initiated a period
                                                              of commercial farming. After the queen’s death in
                                                              1885, the McBrydes acquired the valley outright and
                                                              employed laborers to work the land. However, one
                                                              of the McBryde sons, Alexander, moved a cottage
                                                              belonging to Queen Emma from the upper valley
                                                              nearer the beach, where he lived and continued
                                                              Emma’s practice of floral munificence by planting
                                                              palms, gingers, plumerias, and ferns.
                                                                At the height of its production the McBryde
                                                              plantation had its own railroad that carried laborers
                                                              and sugar cane to and fro, as the crop was in high
                                                              demand.
                                                                But gradually the boom times ended and Alex-
                                                              ander died in 1935. Tenant farmers grew rice and
                                                              taro on the banks of Lawa‘i Stream, in what is now
                                                              Allerton Garden.
                                                                In 1937 Robert and John arrived in Hawaii during
                                                              one of their global treks and were immediately smit-
                                                              ten by Lawa‘i Valley’s natural beauty.
                                                                The two men had met in Chicago in 1922 long
                                                              after Robert, heir to a massive fortune, had given up
                                                              aspirations of being an artist, devoting his time to
                                                              philanthropy, patronage and art collecting. Robert
                                                              was 26 years older than John, who was an orphan
                                                              and architecture student when they met. Robert
                                                              owned a lush mansion and grounds near Monticello,
                                                              Illinois, which he filled with the artworks and plants
               Visitors stroll through the “Three Pools       that he collected on his world travels. John designed
               Room” at Allerton Garden, left, where          some garden spaces on those grounds, and Robert
               the pools’ surface mirrors a towering          adopted John, first in spirit and later legally, as his
               tree. A pair of frogs take a break be-         son and heir.
               tween catching flies, right, at an Aller-
               ton koi pond.





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