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which marked the start of Impassable Canyon, where
                                                             steep cliffs rise from beside the river and there’s no
                                                             way to get downstream except by boat. Right around
                                                             the corner from Big Creek, we hiked up to the magi-
                                                             cal Veil Falls, where water drifted down in sheets of
                                                             spray that moved with the wind. Back on the river, we
                                                             plunged through Redside, Weber, Cliffside and Rubber
                                                             rapids.
                                                               On our last morning, the sun disappeared and a
                                                             cold rain descended on our camp. But that didn’t stop
                                                             us from hiking up to Parrot’s Grotto, a cirque with its
                                                             own waterfall. The picturesque spot is named for Earl
                                                             Parrot, an Iowa native who was known as the Hermit
                                                             of Impassible Canyon. He panned for gold in the river
                                                             and from 1917 to 1944 lived in a cabin in a hanging
                                                             valley above the cirque that required climbs of several
                                                             hundred feet by hand-hewed ladders. He had a huge
                                                             garden, hunted deer and bear and went for years with-
                                                             out seeing others.
                                                               Few people knew of Parrot until a boating expedi-
                                                             tion came upon him in the 1939. One of the party,
                                                             Dr. R.G. Frazier, penned stories about the encounter
                                                             - complete with photos - for the Deseret News in Salt
                                                             Lake City and Field & Stream magazine. The best-
                                                             known quote from the articles was this: “The more I
                                                             see of people, the more I like my dog.”
                                                               By the time we got back on the river, it was raining
                                                             hard. So we delayed lunch and pushed on to our take-
                                                             out below the confluence of Middle Fork and the Main
                                                             Salmon. But the storm did little to dampen our enthu-
                                                             siasm for spending a week in the River of No Return
                                                             Wilderness. I know I’ll be back.

                                                               IF YOU GO


                                                             For more information on ROW trips, see row rowad-
                                                             ventures.com. Rates for ROW’s five-night, six-day trips
                                                             on the Middle Fork of the Salmon range from $1,750
                                                             to $2,230, depending on the week.


















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