Page 66 - WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE DISCOVERING ENGLAND
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Chef  Johan  Laursen,  who  greeted  us   oil murals depicting Norwegian history   utes of Oslo: beaches for bathing, small
            during our meal, prepared a supremely   inside, where the Nobel Peace Prize cer-  islands  for  camping,  Olympic  ski  re-
            succulent  filet  of  saithe,  a  white  fish,  emony is held every year on Dec. 10.   sorts.”
            floating in a light shore crab broth and
            adorned  with  perfectly  poached  peas   We wandered over to the National Gal-  Outside on the sunny patio, we dined on
            and  carrots.  On  the  side  were  delight-  lery which has a fine collection of paint-  Ekeberg’s trout with chanterelle mush-
            ful small oblong brown rolls made with   ings by Edvard Munch (“The Scream”) as   rooms, salsify and shellfish vinaigrette.
            barley, the first grain ever cultivated in   well as Monet and Cezanne. We walked
            Norway,  and  flavored  with  fennel  and   up tony Karl Johan avenue, Oslo’s main   One other night in Oslo we raved about
            caraway seeds.                     street  filled  with  shops  and  grand  his-  our  three-course  seafood  extravaganza
                                               toric hotels, like The Grand, where play-  just a block from The Thief at Tjuvholmen
           “We only eat cod in the months with ‘R’  wright Henrik Ibsen lunched everyday.   Sjomagasin.  Running  into  a  very  well-
            in them,” Chef Laursen told us. “Eighty                               traveled couple from South Africa whom
            percent of my time is just finding nice   The Royal Palace sits at the end of Karl   we’d met at the hotel, they told us this
            stuff  to  produce  really  nice  food.”  He   Johan.  We  explored  the  extraordinary   was one of the best meals they’d ever had.
            knows  the  origins  of  his  ingredients   new Opera House designed by Snohetta,
            personally  and  aims  to  take  “the  best   the firm that also designed Ground Zero   Tjuvholmen  Sjomagasin  is  all  about  sea-
            of traditional Norwegian and Scandina-  in  New  York  City.  Covered  in  Carrara   food. It’s a canal-side restaurant as well
            vian cuisine and give it a contemporary   marble with a roof that is also a slanted   as a fantastic fish market, so everything
            twist -- keeping in pace with the times   walking platform, the architects wanted   here is as fresh as can be, including the
            and world around us.”              the building to look like an iceberg.  lobsters and king crabs that live in the en-
                                                                                  try’s aquarium.
            We walked to Oslo’s famed City Hall, the   We were ready for dinner. We dined at
            classic  building  constructed  between   the reborn historic Ekeberg Restaurant  “Most of our dishes are made on our char-
            1930 and 1950 where every element is   high  above  the  city  where  views  take   coal grill, which is why they taste so heaven-
            Norwegian, from the marble and wood   in  Oslo’s  seacoast  glory.  Its  charming   ly,” says the restaurant. Its excellent wine
            to  the  wooden  carvings  of  Norwegian   maitre’d  Robert  Berggren  told  us,  “ev-  selection pairs perfectly with every dish.
            legends  outside  and  the  monumental   erything  you  need  lies  within  20  min-  We started with a few morsels of briny-


            66    Wine Dine & Travel  Winter 2014
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