Page 152 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SPRING 2025 GRAND VOYAGE

Villanders

"We actually don't identify as Italian
or Austrian but South Tyrolean," says
Elisabeth Rabensteiner in her native
German. She runs the historic Ansitz
Zum Steinbock Hotel in the small village
of Villanders. "We've got the Austrian
mentality, Italian food and fashion, and
German work ethics and efficiency." To-
day, nearly 70% of the population still
speaks German. And it is not just the
language (all public signs are bilingual)
but also the customs and traditions
which sets this region apart from the
rest of Italy.
The Villanderer Alm, a seasonal
mountain pasture at altitudes between
1700 und 2500 meters above sea level,
has been farmed for centuries. Follow-
ing Alpine traditions, cattle graze the
summer pastures while the yields from
the mowing serve as fodder for the
farm animals in winter. The area has be-
come increasingly popular with nature
lovers and hikers, attracted by its high
moors, lush meadows and magnificent
views of the western Dolomites. The
Lake of the Dead and the Chapel of the
Dead are popular destinations. Over 100
mountain huts are scattered throughout
the area, some offering food and shel-
ter like the Mair in Plun, a family-owned
hut for over 200 years, which serves
traditional Alpine cuisine between May
and November. Trout from the lake, beef
from the farm and the quintessential
Austrian dessert, Kaiserschmarrn, grace
the menu.

Right: cattle on Villanderer Alm, Mair in
Plun, barn at Mair in Plun. Left: The
Chapel of the Dead. ©all images by
Wibke Carter.

152 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SPRING 2025