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from home, I could walk just a block to wan-
            der Mendocino Headlands State Park, a 347-
            acre greenbelt that literally surrounds the
            town. Local residents made sure it is pre-
            served, fighting off development and form-
            ing the park in 1974. The desire to preserve
            the past is a big thing that makes Mendocino
            so special.
                   Just a bit north of the headlands park
            is Russian Gulch State Park where the grand
            Frederick W. Panhorst Bridge rises 100 feet
            above the oceanside gulch. Trails here on ei-
            ther side of the bridge climb up to afford
            fantastic views from forest to sea. I took the
            South Trail and wandered through the fern
            forest.
                   Van Damme State Park was another
            wander through a deep green fern forest.
            Winding along the Little River, this park also
            features a unique forest of pygmy cypress
            trees. A trail guide offers trail markers that
            reveal nuggets of social and natural history
            here.
                   The guide reveals that the Pomo peo-
            ple were the natives who thrived here for
            thousands of years. A redwood cone marker
            shares that the Pomo created stools, boxes,
            paddles, dugout canoes and fishing tools
            from the mighty redwood tree. Pomo also
            used redwood bark and root fibers to make
            baskets.
                   Heading north another day I found
            Jug Handle State Natural Reserve where a
            2.5-mile nature trail explores redwood and
            cypress forests that lead to some ancient
            marine terraces cut by ocean waves, glaciers
            and tectonic actions a half-million years ago.





            Left: The town of Mendocino has been
            rigorously preserved by its residents. Right,
            top and bottom: The Nicholson House,
            where I stayed, dates from 1890 and now
            offers nine luxe rooms and suites.








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