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where sheep wintered, Bernholtz said.
               Pike saw potential in the dwelling. Demolition
            and reconstruction of the farmhouse began that fall.
            Bythetimethecraftsmenweredoneanditreopened
            ayearlater,thebuildinghadbeenturnedintoarustic
            and luxurious lodge with 13 suites - and a bunkroom.
               To the rear of the original structure, Pike built a
            large dining room, a spa complete with flotation
            tanks, a pool, bar, large recreation and music rooms,
            a high-end kitchen for producing meals, library, the-
            ater, yoga center, en-suite bedrooms and other
            amenities.
               Another building houses fat-tire mountain bikes,
            ski gear, paddle boards and other equipment. The
            farm also has snowcats for reaching the slopes when
            its juiced-up choppers can’t fly due to weather and
            snowmobiles for touring the snowy countryside. The
            Langhus farm is nearby, where you can ride rugged
            Icelandic steeds.
               My adventure to near the top of the world began
            with a flight from the U.S. to Reykjavik, which was
            settled in 874 by Vikings led by Ingolfr Arnorson.
            With a latitude of 64 degrees, it’s the world’s north-
            ernmost capital of a sovereign state.
               I spent a day wandering the city, visiting the Na-
            tionalMuseumandHallgrimskirkjaCathedral,dining
            on Arctic salmon at a small restaurant and swimming  Stefania Gudrunardottir, the experience man-
            in the mineral-rich Blue Lagoon, which has been     ageratDeplarFarm,metmygroupofeagerheli-
            called one of the 25 Wonders of the World by Na-    skiers at the door and showed us around the
            tional Geographic.                                  lodge. Then the lanky Icelander - who went to
               From there, it was a short flight on Air Iceland to  high school for a year in Kansas - sent us off to
                                                                get our skis and a briefing from our heli-ski
            Akureyri, a town of 20,000 on the Troll Peninsula’s Ey-
            jafjörður Fjord.                                    guides. Photos by Brian Clark
               Akureyri has a small ski resort with a vertical drop
            ofabout1,500feet.ButIwasdestinedforthebigpeaks
            above the Fljot Valley.                             A cushy suite at the Deplar Farm and bot-
                                                                tom: Stefania Gudrunardottir, an experience
               In Akureyri, I hopped in a souped-up Mercedes
                                                                manager at Deplar Farm, points out the Troll
            transport with huge tires and was soon traveling
                                                                Peninsula on Iceland’s northern flank.
            through mountains where, legend has it, mischievous
            trollsdwell.(Ineversawany,butonegnomedidgrabmy      Opposite: Deplar Farm, a converted sheep-
            ski two days later, sending me cartwheeling down a  herder’s farmhouse, serves as the base for
                                                                the Eleven Experience heli-skiing program
            slope.)
                                                                on the Troll Peninsula in northern Iceland.
               Within a few hours, we pulled up to what looked
            likeapleasantfarmhousecompletewithasodroof.This     The luxury lodge has 13 suites, an indoor-
                                                                outdoor pool, spa, entertainment room, yoga
            wasDeplarFarm,wheretwochopperswereparkedon
                                                                studio, gourmet kitchen and other amenities.
            their own pads. And while the farmhouse looked mod-
            est from the front, it was anything but inside.

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