Page 94 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL EATING IBERIA

The chef and most Valencians are very serious
about their city's great dish, named for the circular pan
it's cooked in. Paella's humble beginnings were in the
rice fields surrounding Valencia, and of course, it's not
therealdealunlessyouusethatlocalrice,aroundgrain
with a pearly color called Bomba. It absorbs twice the
amount of the tasty stock as regular long-grain rice, so
it has more flavor and doesn't stick together.
The truth is there are many styles and ingredients
in paella, depending on where you are in the world. But,
in this city, it's not authentic paella unless it includes
rabbit, chicken, snails, white beans, and artichokes. We
bucked tradition somewhat by making Paella de
Mariscos, so popular it might be considered traditional
by now. The other essential ingredient in all paellas is
saffron, the expensive and fragrant spice that gives the
rice its vibrant golden orange color.
We learned, surprisingly, that people in Spain enjoy
their paella in the afternoon for lunch, a meal that can last
twotofivehours.Withthisheavymealmid-day,tapasand
lighterfarearestarsoftheevening.Onlytourists,wewere
told,eatpaellafordinner,likelyinover-pricedtouristtraps.
Typically, the Spanish share paella with family and
friends, eating it directly out of the pan with a wooden
spoon and taking care to eat just their designated pie-
shapedwedge.Neveraddchorizoorsausageorusechilies
or hot sauce. Never stir the rice once it's been spread
evenly in the broth. And never, ever use English chef
Jamie Oliver's recipe for the dish – at least that's what
Chef Pepe said.

94 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2020