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back towards the river, now shaded from
the sun by the buildings at the edge of the
old city. Sitting on the steps with their por-
table stoves and socks stuffed with cheap
tea leaves, the chai vendors make a killing
as men come back from work and tarry
a while before the evening meal, which
is being slaved over by a hard-worked
wife somewhere in the bowels of the city.
At this time many people take another dip to
remove the scum layer gained in the searing
heat of the day, the kids jumping around as
if to prove that even a long, hot day in the
dusty atmosphere of the city streets isn't
enough to dent their enthusiasm for life.
Finally, as the sun goes down, the ghats have
their last wind, and people come out to stroll
along the promenade, to catch up on any
Top and opposite top: Thousands of Indians crowd the
ghats on the Ganges river celebrating life and death
from dawn to dusk. Opposite bottom: Holy man pray-
ing as the sun rises over the Ganges river. Right: Row-
ers transport pilgrims and visitors for early morning
rides up and down the Ganges.
Wine Dine & Travel Spring 2014 27