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Photo by Amy Laughinghouse

week; there are three primary schools on “Part of the St. Mary’s magic is the successful
three other islands. Those ages 16-18 attend blending of past and present.”
school on the mainland, where they board). Here visitors can relax, sunbathe and read—
There’s also a health center, three doctors, or engage in various activities, including
one dentist, one vet.
camping, bird-watching, fishing, golfing,
But no McDonald’s, no shopping malls, no snorkeling. Gig-racing (six-oared boats devel-
cinema! oped in the 19th century) is a popular sport.
Tourism comprises 85 percent of the econo-
St. Mary’s is dotted with artists’ studios, my; more than 125,000 visit between March
vacation homes, B & Bs, and guest houses. and Oct. and, since island accommodations
Tourists can’t rent cars here—but “Scilly are limited, it’s important to book ahead.
cars”—golf carts—and bikes are available to
traverse the nine miles of narrow country Scilly celebs over the centuries have included
roads. Walking trails are also a popular way various royal family members, including
to get around. Queen Victoria—and John Wesley (who
preached here); Alfred, Lord Tennyson;
I rode on colorful character Fred Elms’s 1948 Prime Minister Harold Wilson (who’s bur-
school bus dubbed “Katie”—which is avail- ied here) and, more recently, actor Jude Law,
able for an hour-long tour around the island.
who described it as “the best place on earth.”
“I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else,” said Since the 14th century the Duchy of Corn-
fast-talking guide Elms, occasionally stop- wall has owned most of the land, and Prince
ping the bus so we could jump off to take Charles occasionally visits.
photos of the postcard-perfect views.
Nearby inhabited islands—visited via inter-
Originally from London, he’s lived here 35 island boat service--are St. Agnes (and the
years. “I was fed up with traffic jams on the connected Gugh, accessed by foot when low
mainland!”
tide), Bryher, Tresco, St. Martin’s. Visitors
We passed by several cars, a Royal Mail van— can also do day trips to the uninhabited is-
Photo by George Torrode
and people walking their dogs. lands—such as the largest, Sampson--for a
Top: Scenic view of St. Mary’s. Above: “Katie” the tour “A pair of walking boots is all that is needed to Robinson Crusoe experience.
bus. Opposite top right: The Peninnis lighthouse at savor the essence of St. Mary’s,” wrote Glynis We took a bumpy (but fun!) boat ride to St.
St. Mary’s. Opposite middle: The Star Castle Hotel Cooper in her book, “St. Mary’s—History Agnes: “It’s really going back in time,” noted
overlooks the bay at sundown. Opposite lower right: A and Legends.” Francis. “Fewer than 100 people live here.”
duo of puffins.
After a morning walk around the area, we

70 Wine Dine & Travel Spring 2014