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ing at the Empire Canyon Lodge.  Vari-                                fireplace beside a table laden with fresh
            ous  European-Alpine-style  courses  are                              fruits, cinnamon-spiced pound cake and
            offered from five blazing hearths.   For                              airy meringues for dipping.  Bliss.
            guests, it’s a deliriously delicious adven-                           The  downside  of  Deer  Valley  dining:
            ture:
                                                                                  There’s a scale in every lodging unit.
            Start at the fireplace where huge wheels                              Savoring Sundance
            of  melting  Swiss  raclette  ooze  nutty
            cheese  wonderfulness  for  spreading  on                             With only 450 acres for skiing and snow-
            thin slices of fresh baguette; accessorize                            boarding and about half the snowfall of
            your plate with house-made accompani-                                 Alta, carving down hill runs isn’t the end-
            ments such as strawberry-tarragon jam,                                all, be-all here – especially in spring when
            zippy  pickled  onions  and  house-cured                              daytime  temps  average  50+  and  snow
            salami. Move on to another fireplace to                               turns to slush and melts into bare spots.
            choose from stews simmering in heavy                                  This Robert Redford-owned resort is as
            cast iron cauldrons hung from oversized                               much about arts and culture as anything.
            hooks in the hearth – or perhaps try a                                I  could  learn  to  make  pottery,  jewelry,
            little  grilled  local  trout  or  spit-roasted                       prints or soap here – or learn painting,
            quail, and don’t forget the crisp, buttery                            photography  or  glass  blowing.    I  could
            potato rosti.
                                                                                  go winter flyfishing, see a movie in Rob-
            At the next fireplace, find slow-roasting                             ert Redford’s own screening room, get a
            whole legs of lamb, ready to be carved to                             massage – or take another ski lesson.
            order – and served with Dutch oven spe-                               Instructor  Bruce  Giffen,  who  has  been
            cialties such as Vidalia onion bread pud-                             teaching skiing for 40 years, was my early
            ding.  Dessert?  Swiss  fondue,  of  course:                          morning taskmaster.
            Pots of bubbling dark chocolate, caramel
            and  white  chocolate  hang  in  the  lobby                          “You’re  skiing  so  ladylike,”  he  scolded.





            78    Wine Dine & Travel  Spring 2014
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