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ing at the Empire Canyon Lodge. Vari- fireplace beside a table laden with fresh
ous European-Alpine-style courses are fruits, cinnamon-spiced pound cake and
offered from five blazing hearths. For airy meringues for dipping. Bliss.
guests, it’s a deliriously delicious adven- The downside of Deer Valley dining:
ture:
There’s a scale in every lodging unit.
Start at the fireplace where huge wheels Savoring Sundance
of melting Swiss raclette ooze nutty
cheese wonderfulness for spreading on With only 450 acres for skiing and snow-
thin slices of fresh baguette; accessorize boarding and about half the snowfall of
your plate with house-made accompani- Alta, carving down hill runs isn’t the end-
ments such as strawberry-tarragon jam, all, be-all here – especially in spring when
zippy pickled onions and house-cured daytime temps average 50+ and snow
salami. Move on to another fireplace to turns to slush and melts into bare spots.
choose from stews simmering in heavy This Robert Redford-owned resort is as
cast iron cauldrons hung from oversized much about arts and culture as anything.
hooks in the hearth – or perhaps try a I could learn to make pottery, jewelry,
little grilled local trout or spit-roasted prints or soap here – or learn painting,
quail, and don’t forget the crisp, buttery photography or glass blowing. I could
potato rosti.
go winter flyfishing, see a movie in Rob-
At the next fireplace, find slow-roasting ert Redford’s own screening room, get a
whole legs of lamb, ready to be carved to massage – or take another ski lesson.
order – and served with Dutch oven spe- Instructor Bruce Giffen, who has been
cialties such as Vidalia onion bread pud- teaching skiing for 40 years, was my early
ding. Dessert? Swiss fondue, of course: morning taskmaster.
Pots of bubbling dark chocolate, caramel
and white chocolate hang in the lobby “You’re skiing so ladylike,” he scolded.
78 Wine Dine & Travel Spring 2014