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The Great Buddha Hall is one of several structures
located on Todai-ji’s expansive grounds. Nigatsu-
do, right, a short uphill walk from the great hall, of-
fers spectacular views of Nara city from its balcony.
About 30 miles south of Kyoto in Western Honshu, Nara has a No sooner did we begin our trek than we were accosted by a
deep history, serving as Japan’s first capital and center of Bud- herd of deer stalking us for handouts. They appear docile, but
dhism in the eighth century. The Buddhist influence has always looks are deceiving, as these deer wouldn’t hesitate to steal
been strong there and the city is home to the iconic Great Buddha, candy from a small child – something even my pit bull knows
which is housed in the massive Todai-ji, or “Great Eastern Temple.” not to do.
But visiting the great temple is not a solemn pilgrimage, as my The deer are so insistent that the city has erected signs in-
wife, son and I learned when we stepped off the train at the station forming tourists about the dos and don’ts of deer interactions.
and began the one-mile walk to Nara Park, the temple’s home. The signs should be directed at the deer, but humans have to
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