Page 182 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2024 LIMA
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a public dock to hike to one of the Ba‐
                                                              hamas’ many lovely beaches. On the way,
                                                              we encountered a chap named Albury, who
                                                              came from a family of boat builders. He
                                                              told us his people had been in the Bahamas
                                                              since the mid-1600s.
                                                                  “The standard story is that we all de‐
                                                              scended from ‘Loyalists’ who came here
                                                              after the American Revolution because we
                                                              sided with the British,” he said. “But my an‐
                                                              cestors had already been here for six gen‐
                                                              erations.”
                                                                  On our way to a crescent beach cov‐
                                                              ered with soft, white sand, we passed a
                                                              small cemetery where a good number of
                                                              the graves were Alburys.
                                                                  We swam and floated on the Atlantic
                                                              side of the cay, where Burns said he’d once
                                                              practiced hunting submarines during his
                                                              Navy days, in waters that he called “ridicu‐
                                                              lously” deep. According to NASA, the basin
                                                              to the east of the Bahamas falls off to
                                                              depths of more than 13,000 feet.
                                                                  During the next five days, we sailed
                                                              from harbor to harbor. One of our stops
                                                              was Elbow Cay, home to a tall (and still
                                                              working), red and white Elbow Reef light‐
                                                              house that we were able to climb. It offered
                                                              wonderful views of the surrounding waters
                                                              and countryside.





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