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By John Muncie
VILLA ROMANA DEL CASALE
he cities of Sicily boil with energy.
People and careless drivers cram
the streets. Watch out! Jump to
T the curb!
The sounds of city life sweep over you
like a sonic surf. The market mornings are
Fellini-esque. Stubbled old men with cine‐
matic faces shout “calamari freschi! mer‐
luzzo freschi!” Squat women wearing
flowered aprons wave their hands over
boxes of fresh-picked peppers, then laugh
like the word “pepperoni” is a stand-up
punchline. Every narrow passageway
smells like pasta and fish and garbage and
laundry. Sicilian cities make your brain
tap-dance.
And yet, when Jody asked me recently,
“What do you remember most from our
trip to Sicily?” I pictured something that
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