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By John Muncie

 VILLA ROMANA DEL CASALE




                                                             he cities of Sicily boil with energy.
                                                             People and careless drivers cram
                                                             the streets. Watch out! Jump to
                                                   T the curb!
                                                       The sounds of city life sweep over you
                                                   like a sonic surf. The market mornings are
                                                   Fellini-esque. Stubbled old men with cine‐
                                                   matic faces shout “calamari freschi! mer‐
                                                   luzzo freschi!” Squat women wearing
                                                   flowered aprons wave their hands over
                                                   boxes of fresh-picked peppers, then laugh
                                                   like the word “pepperoni” is a stand-up
                                                   punchline. Every narrow passageway
                                                   smells like pasta and fish and garbage and
                                                   laundry. Sicilian cities make your brain
                                                   tap-dance.
                                                       And yet, when Jody asked me recently,
                                                   “What do you remember most from our
                                                   trip to Sicily?” I pictured something that









































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