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Shop till you drop                                Experience miske



              There are dozens of markets in Quito. For         If you don’t know what “miske” is now, you’ll
            souvenirs, head straight to Mercado Artesanal     learn in Quito. It’s the distilled alcohol made
            La Mariscal, a bustling covered warren of ven-    from the nectar at the heart of local agave
            dors who compete to sell locally made arts and    plants – the wild cousin of Mexico’s mezcal and
            crafts. Find everything from textiles and jew-    tequila. La Casa Agave, a boutique miske pro-
            elry to shoes, or even a new bag to carry your    ducer and gold medal winner at San Francisco’s
            purchases home in. Prices are competitive –       World Spirits Competition, is a great place to
            and usually a bargain even for those who don’t    learn more and of course, taste. (https://casa-
            bother to haggle.                                 agave-ecuador.com/en/)
              Mercado Inaquito is the place to go for fresh
            food – from fruits to local cheeses, seafood and          Know before you go
            just-butchered meats. Enjoy a snack (or a meal)
            at its food court.
                                                                Ecuador has used U.S. currency since 1999 –
              At Mercado Municipal San Francisco, there’s     so no need to bring anything but dollars. You
            food – but the big draw is a clutch of healers    may still receive some “sucre’ coins as change.
            who offer traditional herbal medicines and
                                                                Quito sits at 9,350 feet elevation. If you
            treatments handed down by ancestors. The af-      think you might be prone to altitude sickness,
            ternoon we visited, we found parents who          talk to your doctor about a prescription for Ac-
            sought a remedy for their
                                                                            etazolamide.
            young son’s shyness. In an-
                                                                              I stayed at Hotel Mama
            other cubby, a woman from
            Canada paid $7 for a “body-                                     Cuchara, an Art Hotel, in the
                                                                            city’s historic center, within easy
            and-soul energy fix” that re-
                                                                            walking distance of most major
            quired she strip to her under-
            wear, get whacked with herb                                     old town attractions. Rooms for
                                                                            two start at around $300 per
            branches, then soothed with a
                                                                            night and include a lavish break-
            gentle neck and shoulders oil
            rub.                                                            fast buffet. (https://hotelma-
                                                                            macuchara.com/us/)
                 Ride sky high                                                I had two excellent guides in
                                                                            Quito. Each offers full-day city
                                                                            tours (including a visit to Mitad
              For breathtaking views of                                     del Mundo) for up to three people
            the city, ride a TelefériQo gon-                                for $120. The package includes
            dola from the western edge of Quito up the        private transportation, but not admission fees or
            east side of Pichincha volcano. In less than 20   lunch. Contact Daniel Diaz at dxsteel@hotmail
            ear-popping minutes you’ll rise from about        .com or Antonio Lescano at joseantonioles-
            10,000 feet elevation to almost 13,000 feet.      cano@gmail.com Diaz offers half-day tours for
            We timed our ascent to get a golden sunset        $80.
            view of Quito and to be at the Cruz Loma look-      Find the Quito Tourist Office at www.Quito
            out up top as the city comes to life each         .com.ec
            evening when its 3 million inhabitants switch
            on evening lights. Instead we ascended into a
            dense, otherworldly cloud. Beautiful – utterly
            quiet and peaceful.


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