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By the time Ferdinand died, in 1885, Pena Palace nate furniture. Yes, yes, yes. And, this being Por-
included every style between Gothic and Renais- tugal, Pena Palace also offers a kaleidoscope of
sance. It even has a courtyard surrounded by Moor- ornate tile work in a myriad of patterns and col-
ish arches. Romanticism run amok. ors. Tiles, tiles, tiles, everywhere.
The four of us–me; my wife, Jody; my stepson, Oh, and in the late 2000s, the place got a bright
Ben; and Ben’s partner, Job – spent two hours at new yellow, orange, and red paint job.
the Palace and then explored the massive gardens Like Neuschwanstein, Pena Palace is crammed
and grounds that are splayed out below the crag with tourists. In mid-morning and early afternoon,
like a deep green skirt. especially, there’s a long line for tickets and a long
As far as castles go, it’s almost easier to say line to get in – only a certain number are admitted
what’s not in the Pena Palace than what is. Tur- for each half-hour slot. Recommendation: buy tick-
rets? Yes. Gargoyles? Yes. Enormous, canopied ets in advance online.
royal beds in royal rooms? Yes. Opulent dining The queues can be irritating but, for us, the
rooms. Yes. Stone steps up, down and around, palace was so big and convoluted, the crowds
portraits of unsmiling princes, carvings, busts, weren’t a bother. And mid-week, mid-September
stained glass, ornate crosses, ornate chapels, or- didn’t seem to be an overly popular time. We oohed
78 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SPRING 2023