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coincided with a depression in Norway so costs for  sharing the history of Alesund as Norway’s -- and the
            labor and materials were low,” she said. Norway’s  world’s -- major exporter of salt cod.
            finest architects and master craftsmen of the day   We walked from our comfortable hotel, Quality
            came for the work and recreated the town in that  Hotel Waterfront, to Sjøbua, a cozily atmospheric
            era’s new style of Art Nouveau, which celebrated  restaurant in an old wharf-side warehouse where we
            curves and arches with simple adornments fashioned  enjoyed excellent fresh seafood with fine wines.
            after organic elements in nature, especially trees and  Chef/owner Ove Fjortfoft restored this old fish
            flowers.                                        warehouse in 1987 into a charming, wooden-beamed
               We simply wandered all over Alesund, a town of  fish-centric restaurant lighted by candles that has
            55,000, from the town park of Aksla (the shoulder), a  justly becomes a locals’ favorite. His baked lobster
            418-step hike uphill for a panoramic birds-eye view of  soup is beloved.
            the entire coastal village, to Alesund Church from  We strolled along Kongens Gate (Kings Road), a
            1909 with its peaceful graveyard, to the Art Nouveau  cobblestoned street that is mostly closed to vehicle
            Center in the historic Swan Pharmacy, to The    traffic where those lovely Art Nouveau buildings are
            Fisheries Museum on the harbor, one of the few  home to shops and restaurants that spill outside in
            buildings that escaped the fire, dating from 1861 and


            220   WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2019
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