Page 83 - WDT MAGAZINE PORTUGAL
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problems until we found the ancient alley
                                                                  where our Airbnb was located. We drove
                                                                  down the steep street, again full of tourists
                                                                  and locals, and found ourselves at a dead end
                                                                  with seemingly no way to turn around. I
                                                                  parked the car facing an outdoor cafe where
                                                                  all the patrons were glaring at us.
                                                                     Mary and Ira volunteered to walk up the
                                                                  street to look for João Amaral, our host who
                                                                  was waiting for us to arrive. The trio arrived
                                                                  a few minutes later and I managed to turn
                                                                  around, avoiding the four-foot drop-off at
                                                                  the street end and providing much
                                                                  entertainment for the crowd gathered to
                                                                  witness the crazy tourist driver do the
                                                                  impossible. I made my way up the street and
                                                                  even found a parking space for our still
                                                                  unblemished rental car. Coimbra is a very
                                                                  walkable town so our ride would stay parked
                                                                  for the next four days.
                                                                     Our two-bedroom, two-bath rental, still
                                                                  a work in progress, delighted a history buff
                                                                  like me. It was a cross between a museum,
                                                                  archaeological dig, and modern apartment.
                                                                  João had completely restored the ancient
                                                                  building into a chic modern living space,
                                                                  leaving certain ancient walls and floors
                                                                  exposed via Plexiglas covers. Perhaps most





            82    WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2019
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