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problems until we found the ancient alley
where our Airbnb was located. We drove
down the steep street, again full of tourists
and locals, and found ourselves at a dead end
with seemingly no way to turn around. I
parked the car facing an outdoor cafe where
all the patrons were glaring at us.
Mary and Ira volunteered to walk up the
street to look for João Amaral, our host who
was waiting for us to arrive. The trio arrived
a few minutes later and I managed to turn
around, avoiding the four-foot drop-off at
the street end and providing much
entertainment for the crowd gathered to
witness the crazy tourist driver do the
impossible. I made my way up the street and
even found a parking space for our still
unblemished rental car. Coimbra is a very
walkable town so our ride would stay parked
for the next four days.
Our two-bedroom, two-bath rental, still
a work in progress, delighted a history buff
like me. It was a cross between a museum,
archaeological dig, and modern apartment.
João had completely restored the ancient
building into a chic modern living space,
leaving certain ancient walls and floors
exposed via Plexiglas covers. Perhaps most
82 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2019