Page 184 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL FALL 2021 DISCOVERING SANTA FE

THE LAST WORD

Anthony Bourdain and The Frito Pie Controversy

arly in our visit, we joined Joanne Hud-
son, public relations manager for
ETOURISM Santa Fe, for breakfast at a lo-
cals’ favorite eatery, Tia Sophia’s, just off the
plaza. Since 1975, it’s served down-home tra-
ditional dishes like breakfast burritos and
huevos rancheros to help Santa Fe residents
start their day. Our egg dishes included sides
of posole and red or green chili. We chose
carefully since the menu warns the kitchen is
“not responsible for TOO hot chili.
As we shared our adventures to date, Ron
mentioned his memorable Frito Pie at the Coy-
ote Cafe Cantina. Joanne smiled knowingly and
pointed out that Santa Fe’s Five & Dime Gen-
eral Store claims they invented Frito Pie. But it
isn’t served in a bowl. Instead, they ladle chili
into an opened bag of Fritos, shower it with
cheese, and hand it to you with a napkin and
plastic spoon. Ron wondered why he hadn’t
thought of that.
The story intrigued Ron to do some digging
about his favorite dish. That’s when Anthony
Bourdain’s name popped up. When he wrote a
syndicated food and wine column years ago,
Ron interviewed the late chef, author, and tv
star. In the course of our travels, we’ve often
followed his footsteps into “Parts Unknown”
eateries around the world. ing the bag gingerly, as if it would explode. Ob-
viously in a foul mood, the man who remained
A few years ago, Bourdain visited the Santa
polite to his Namibian hosts while eating
Fe Five & Dime General Store to film for his
warthog anus dismissed Santa Fe’s fast food
show. In the segment that ran, the tall, gaunt
curly- gray-haired star is seen at the counter pride and joy as “warm crap in a bag” and
“colostomy pie.”
ordering a soda and Frito Pie. Oblivious to his
famous customer, the server handed him the The insults continued. Bourdain claimed the
chili-filled Frito bag. chili was canned Hormel topped with a “day-
glow orange cheese-like substance.” Then, with
The next shot shows seated on a stool, hold-
a final brutal blow, declared it wasn’t a local

184 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL 2021