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into Omaha. We were lulled to sleep by the click-  walked into Union Station with its soaring Great
            etty clack of the rails and were awakened around 6  Hall, we could smell fresh-baked pastries coming
            a.m. by Colorado sunlight poking into our com-    from a deli and the Snooze restaurant, where we
            partment.                                         had a tasty breakfast of French toast, pancakes,
              About 50 miles west of Denver, our anticipation  fresh fruit and coffee.
            built with our first vision of the Rockies in the dis-  Then we checked into our digs for the next three
            tance, reminding me of a trip decades past when I  nights, the Crawford Hotel in Union Station, in a
            drove with my parents from Iowa to Fort Collins   corner suite that was once the offices for what
            north of Denver to attend Colorado State Univer-  probably was a shipping company. From our front
            sity for my freshman year. (I ended up graduating  window, we looked out over the plaza in front of
            from the University of Colorado in Boulder, with a  the station and down 17th Street.
            year at Uppsala University in Sweden.)              Not long after that, we met Grant on Wynkoop
              Within an hour that first morning, we were      Street, which runs in front of the depot, and we
            pulling into Denver’s busy Union Station, which re-  were off. One of first stops was the Oxford Hotel,
            minded me of the depot in the center of Stock-    which historic preservationist and developer Dana
            holm, Sweden, which I’d visited a few years back.  Crawford, for whom the Crawford Hotel in Union
            Located on the Baltic Sea, Stockholm was my em-   Station was named, owns.
            barkation point for a high-speed train to Gothen-    Then it was on to the Rockmont Ranchwear
            burg on the Sweden’s western Atlantic coast.      store, which Grant said is the only original busi-
            Denver’s station boasts a white, fabric canopy cov-  ness in LoDo. Founded more than 75 years ago, its
            ering some of the tracks that is a stark modernistic  embroidered shirts – which feature distinctive
            contrast to the century old, beaux art Union Sta-  snap buttons – have been worn by musicians rang-
            tion. Remarkably, the two styles flow together    ing from Bob Dylan to Eric Clapton to David Bowie
            well.                                             to Bonnie Raitt.
              When we bid adieu to the California Zephyr and    “Papa Jack opened the business – which also










































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