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busiest seaports in Europe – at one
square. Hills are terraced with red tile
time, home to 11 shipyards and 400 sea roofs of gracious homes once owned by
captains. The island remained part of sea captains – passed down to great-
the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the grandchildren who run pirate-themed
end of World War I, when the Treaty of excursion boats or ice cream parlors.
Rapallo gave it to Italy. After World War
II, it was incorporated into Yugoslavia. The Museum of Apoxyomenos is one of
In 1991, it became part of present-day Mali Losinj’s proudest achievements. It’s
independent Croatia. dedicated entirely to an ancient Greek
statue discovered in 1996, just off the
The island was untouched during Croa- Losinj coast – where it had rested for
tia’s war for independence, said guide about 2,000 years. If you missed see-
Damir Badurina. Only the colors of ing the ancient bronze when it visited
towns changed – from shades of gray the Getty or the Louvre, don’t miss it in
to pastels. its home. The sculpture depicts the time-
less beauty of a young male athlete’s
A short walk from Cikat Bay, Mali Losinj nude body – and the museum is a con-
is the island’s largest town. It still has a temporary love letter to that perfectly
Maritime Academy where young people preserved treasure.
can learn to become sea captains – but
today’s graduates will most likely skip- Veli Losinj is a colorful seafront village
per private yachts and tour boats that on the southeast end of island. The
line the docks of the bay. Mali’s harbor town dates to the 13th century – and,
is edged with outdoor cafes and shops like Mali, was home to generations of
where tourists sample olive oils and lo- boat builders and seafarers. Its baroque
cal honey. Children skip rope in the town Basilica of St. Anthony, rebuilt in the late
Above: A sea captain in Mali Losinj is happy to
greet a visitor.
Left: ‘Late afternoon sun reflects on Cikat Bay.
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