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Whatever you choose, do not forgo a plate of souffle pota-  We dined in the Garden Room, a perennial favorite, indulging
           toes, a dish I’ve only ever had in New Orleans’ grand Creole   first in the famous “25-cent martinis — classic, Commander’s
           restaurants, including Arnaud’s, Antoine’s and Galatoire’s.   (the turquoise one), Cosmopolitan or Ray’s melon — limit
           Here’s how Arnaud’s describes these pillows of delight:   three per person ‘cause that’s enough.”
           “Legend has it that Collinet, French King Louis Phillipe’s (reign
                                                               Favorite daytime favorites here include smoked corn stone-
           1830-1848) chef unintentionally created souffle potatoes
                                                               ground grits, Commander’s turtle soup finished table side with
           by plunging already fried potatoes into extremely hot oil to
                                                               sherry, Creole gumbo du jour, and cast-iron seared Gulf fish
           reheat them… to the chef’s surprise and king’s delight, the
                                                               with Louisiana crab and boiled peanuts pureed with brown
           potatoes puffed up like little balloons.” They are served with
                                                               butter. Another classic is its cornbread crusted catfish with
           bearnaise sauce. This may be my favorite potato dish in the
                                                               Cajun andouille sausage, grilled Visalia onions, Louisiana red
           world.
                                                                                       beans and roasted tomatoes
           And also do not miss Cafe                                                   with smoked corn grits.
           Brulot, another classic on
                                                                                       If you save room, here also is
           many upscale old-line
                                                                                       NOLA’s “most iconic des-
           Creole menus here. This
                                                                                       sert” — Creole Bread Pudding
           is an after-dinner coffee/
                                                                                       Souffle, created in 1981 by
           brandy drink that is pre-
                                                                                       Prudhomme.
           pared tableside, including
           some very theatrical flam-                                                  Walk it all off around the Gar-
           ing techniques in special                                                   den District to view some of
           equipment that gleams of                                                    the city’s grandest homes.
           silver. This is no ordinary                                                 Our final culinary adventure
           after-dinner drink, but                                                     was dinner at Broussard’s on
           then, this is New Orleans.                                                  Conti Street. Considered the
           (www.arnaudsrestaurant.                                                     fourth of the grand-dame Cre-
           com.)                                                                       ole French restaurants in the
           Lunch the next day at Commander’s Palace put us in another   French Quarter (the others being Antoine’s, Galatoire’s and
           Brennan temple to Creole cuisine. You may notice there are   Arnaud’s), Broussard’s opened in 1920. Its outdoor courtyard
           a lot of Brennans in the restaurant business in New Orleans.   for patio dining is one of the prettiest in the city. (www.brous-
           They are in the second and third and fourth generations now,   sards.com.)
           and to map the uncles, aunts, fathers, mothers and cousins   It offers one of the city’s favorite reveillon menus of classic
           who hail from this clan would be exhausting.        Creole dishes. We loved its shrimp remoulade featuring Gulf

           Commander’s Palace may be the most famous — and lauded   shrimp in that classic Creole sauce, akin to a slightly spicy
           — of all. It has been named best restaurant in New Orleans   tartar sauce. The crabmeat gratin featured grilled cauliflower.
           and even best restaurant in the United States many times.   Entrees of Louisiana Bonaparte — fresh local fish sautéed
           (www.commanderspalace.com.)                         and topped with lump crabmeat, lemon butter and grilled as-
           A Garden District landmark since 1893, Commander’s Palace   paragus; shrimp and crab penne diablo — with corn and reg-
           is housed in an old mansion, many different rooms becom-  giano parmesan; and Gulf shrimp King Creole — with sesame
           ing favorite dining rooms. In 1974, Ella, Dottie, Dick and John   herb sticky rice, were each truly delectable.
           Brennan took it over and the accolades began. Famous chefs   Is your mouth watering yet?
           Emeril Lagasse and Paul Prudhomme both cooked here early
                                                               Mine, too.
           in their careers.
                                                                                   Garlic Seared Gulf Shrimp at Commander’s
                                                                                       Palace, with grilled rapini greens, slow-
                                                                                    roasted tomato, wild rice, charred shallots,
                                                                                       brown butter pureed Louisiana yams,
                                                                                   cebollita emulsion and sweet corn soubise.
                                                                                        On the side is its smoked corn stone
                                                                                                         ground grits.



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