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Whatever you choose, do not forgo a plate of souffle pota- We dined in the Garden Room, a perennial favorite, indulging
toes, a dish I’ve only ever had in New Orleans’ grand Creole first in the famous “25-cent martinis — classic, Commander’s
restaurants, including Arnaud’s, Antoine’s and Galatoire’s. (the turquoise one), Cosmopolitan or Ray’s melon — limit
Here’s how Arnaud’s describes these pillows of delight: three per person ‘cause that’s enough.”
“Legend has it that Collinet, French King Louis Phillipe’s (reign
Favorite daytime favorites here include smoked corn stone-
1830-1848) chef unintentionally created souffle potatoes
ground grits, Commander’s turtle soup finished table side with
by plunging already fried potatoes into extremely hot oil to
sherry, Creole gumbo du jour, and cast-iron seared Gulf fish
reheat them… to the chef’s surprise and king’s delight, the
with Louisiana crab and boiled peanuts pureed with brown
potatoes puffed up like little balloons.” They are served with
butter. Another classic is its cornbread crusted catfish with
bearnaise sauce. This may be my favorite potato dish in the
Cajun andouille sausage, grilled Visalia onions, Louisiana red
world.
beans and roasted tomatoes
And also do not miss Cafe with smoked corn grits.
Brulot, another classic on
If you save room, here also is
many upscale old-line
NOLA’s “most iconic des-
Creole menus here. This
sert” — Creole Bread Pudding
is an after-dinner coffee/
Souffle, created in 1981 by
brandy drink that is pre-
Prudhomme.
pared tableside, including
some very theatrical flam- Walk it all off around the Gar-
ing techniques in special den District to view some of
equipment that gleams of the city’s grandest homes.
silver. This is no ordinary Our final culinary adventure
after-dinner drink, but was dinner at Broussard’s on
then, this is New Orleans. Conti Street. Considered the
(www.arnaudsrestaurant. fourth of the grand-dame Cre-
com.) ole French restaurants in the
Lunch the next day at Commander’s Palace put us in another French Quarter (the others being Antoine’s, Galatoire’s and
Brennan temple to Creole cuisine. You may notice there are Arnaud’s), Broussard’s opened in 1920. Its outdoor courtyard
a lot of Brennans in the restaurant business in New Orleans. for patio dining is one of the prettiest in the city. (www.brous-
They are in the second and third and fourth generations now, sards.com.)
and to map the uncles, aunts, fathers, mothers and cousins It offers one of the city’s favorite reveillon menus of classic
who hail from this clan would be exhausting. Creole dishes. We loved its shrimp remoulade featuring Gulf
Commander’s Palace may be the most famous — and lauded shrimp in that classic Creole sauce, akin to a slightly spicy
— of all. It has been named best restaurant in New Orleans tartar sauce. The crabmeat gratin featured grilled cauliflower.
and even best restaurant in the United States many times. Entrees of Louisiana Bonaparte — fresh local fish sautéed
(www.commanderspalace.com.) and topped with lump crabmeat, lemon butter and grilled as-
A Garden District landmark since 1893, Commander’s Palace paragus; shrimp and crab penne diablo — with corn and reg-
is housed in an old mansion, many different rooms becom- giano parmesan; and Gulf shrimp King Creole — with sesame
ing favorite dining rooms. In 1974, Ella, Dottie, Dick and John herb sticky rice, were each truly delectable.
Brennan took it over and the accolades began. Famous chefs Is your mouth watering yet?
Emeril Lagasse and Paul Prudhomme both cooked here early
Mine, too.
in their careers.
Garlic Seared Gulf Shrimp at Commander’s
Palace, with grilled rapini greens, slow-
roasted tomato, wild rice, charred shallots,
brown butter pureed Louisiana yams,
cebollita emulsion and sweet corn soubise.
On the side is its smoked corn stone
ground grits.
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