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damp building but there is an increasing shortage
of priests, mentions Cleaver.
Another, much larger church of the same archi-
tectural style, the Abbey of Saint Philibert, is in
nearby Tournus but I’m much more interested in
the town’s Hôtel-Dieu. Built in 1675 with money
from a benefactor, this hospital, with three long
rooms of the sick, is not afraid to compete with
that of Beaune. The beds are still original so is the
furniture and equipment in the 17th century
apothecary. The hospital remained open as a con-
valescent home until 1981 simply because the last
residents enjoyed the communal rooms and re-
fused to move.
After my morning boost of local history, I drop
into the Domaine de L’Echelette for a wine tasting
with owner Guillaume Champliaud who is looking
after the 120,000 bottle vineyard in the second
generation. There are three things I learn during
the quick stopover. One, Chardonnay is named af-
ter a Burgundy village, two, local wine pairs best
with Comté cheese and three, in France, any fro-
mage is eaten before dessert.
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