Page 94 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL FALL 2020 South Africa

Bo Kaap If you’d like a little snack, be sure to try the fa-
mous street food at a simple stall at the corner of
Bo Kapp, one of Cape Town's most distinctive
neighborhoods, also known as the Muslim or Cape Helliger Lane and Rose Street. For the last 14
years Warida Conelius has deep fried the best
Malay Quarter, is located just a few blocks from
samosas in Bo Kaap. Cooked on site, they are su-
Greenmarket Square. Here homes, stores and
mosques are a cheerful rainbow of hot pink, lime per fresh – hot and crisp. We got there early be-
green, turquoise and other vibrant colors. cause she sells out of everything that she makes.
Bo Kaap is home to a lively arts community and
The community’s history is just as colorful but in
number of outstanding galleries, mostly owned by
darker hues. Most residents of Bo Kaap descended
from muslim slaves from Africa, Asia, Indonesia, the artists. One of them, Art du Cap gallerie,fea-
tured larger than life portraits of famous people
and Malaysia brought by the Dutch during the the
including Nelson Mandela. Owner and artist, An-
16th and 17th centuries. The Cape Malays as they
were called, were a mixed lot -- from scholars and thony de Klerk, and his wife also sponsor an out-
reach program of art classes for neighborhood
religious leaders to convicts and skilled craftsmen.
residents.
As we walked the steep cobblestone streets, we
learned that the more modest homes were built by The community’s popularity has its downside.
and for the slaves, while the larger houses at the We saw several signs pleading to save Bo Kaap.
Since apartheid ended, non-muslims have been al-
top of the hill were for owners and managers.
lowed to buy homes here, causing inflated home
Many of the homes today are B and Bs, small
restaurants, shops, galleries and grocery stores. prices and increased property taxes. As a result,
many muslims have had to move out. The city is
Climbing up and down the hills can work up a
slowing the gentrification by limiting the percent-
thirst, but don’t look for a cold beer here -- no al-
cohol is allowed. (Just across the street from Bo age of outside owners to 15 percent, although our
tour guide doubted that rule would stand because
Kaap though, several markets, bars and restau-
there’s money to be made here.
rants serve adult beverages.)

94 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2020