Page 155 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL FALL 2024 SPAIN

ward Franke, and step into a belching “tuk
tuk” that took us to the other side of town
where she and Anita had rented an apart-
ment. Both had been preparing for the mis-
sion for the preceding two weeks.
After unpacking, I joined them at the
dining room table where the indefatigable
duo was alphabetizing files from previous
missions—one for each patient from up and
down the Rio Momón, including “Nueva
York,” 8 hours upriver. I had three days to
familiarize myself with Iquitos and the mis-
sion work.
I can best describe the rough town situ-
ated at the confluence of three major
“rios”, the Amazon, Momón, and Nanay, as
“the Timbuctu of Latin America”. The only
way in or out is to fly, take a boat, or step
into the Amazon.
My friend had arranged for me to meet
a chef/instructor who runs a school where
she trains young students in the culinary
arts. They practice their trade in the
restaurant and Escuela de gastronomia La
Mishquina cooking school under the leader-
ship of the vivacious Pilar Agnini (https://
www.facebook.com/people/La-Mishquina),
a specialist in Amazonian cuisine, who in-
troduced me to her 80-year old chef Jaime
Yspushima, a 3rd generation Peruvian. “He
is considered la memoria de Amazonia,”
she said, as he and I spent the morning as-
sembling authentic Peruvian ceviche. The
soft-spoken chef insisted: “I don’t use any
other fish than the paiche from the Ama-
zon.” Unlike the Mexican version which is
marinated several hours in lemon juice, Pe-
ruvian ceviche is prepared tableside or a
few minutes ahead, and served up with a
side of papas, mashed potatoes, and corn
nuts. The chef’s secret sauce is Leche de
Tigre, a milky blend of paiche, onion, and
special spices. “My secret is a touch of
canned milk,” he said, adding a tablespoon
to the blend.

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