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began exploring the park in the 1700s. The
                                                                  many groups hunting and living within the
                                                                  boundaries of the national park were
                                                                  driven out after the park was created, at
                                                                  times by the US Army. Buffalo Bill was a
                                                                  scout for the army during the 1880s Indian
                                                                  Wars, as they were called. People called
                                                                  the park a virgin wilderness, a completely
                                                                  inaccurate label. These days, 27 tribes are
                                                                  associated with the park in some way.
                                                                      It’s impossible to cover the 2.2-million
                                                                  acre park in a day, and we missed Old
                                                                  Faithful and other dramatic geysers. But I
                                                                  didn’t feel shortchanged at all. In just a few
                                                                  hours we saw herds of bison in the Lamar
                                                                  Valley, called the Serengeti of Yellowstone,
                                                                  and 11 bears including grizzlies and black
                                                                  bears with their cubs. We were far from
                                                                  alone as we cruised along the twisting,
                                                                  climbing road often clogged with cars and
                                                                  RVs. Animal sightings caused everyone to
                                                                  pull over to the side for a better look. The
                                                                  crush of all sizes of vehicles caused our
                                                                  driver to occasional exclaim “Cheese and
                                                                  crackers!” her sanitized cuss for rude, self-
                                                                  absorbed drivers.
                                                                      We saw far too many “tourons,” those
                                                                  ignorant humans who somehow feel they
                                                                  have every right to harass wild animals. It
                                                                  was truly astonishing to see people stand-
                                                                  ing just a few feet from a five-foot behe-
                                                                  moth weighing well over 1,000 pounds, or
                                                                  crossing a broad field to get close to a
                                                                  large herd. Did they really think they could
                                                                  outrun a bison or bear? A woman standing
                                                                  a few feet from a bison was gored to death
                                                                  the day before our visit (a fact no-one
                                                                  shared during our tour). Over-eager sight-
                                                                  seers were lucky to escape harm during a
                                                                  recent sudden hyper thermal explosion at
                                                                  Biscuit Basin. Tourists regularly wander too
                                                                  close to hot springs and other meltingly
                                                                  hot thermal spots. All sorts of unbelievable
                                                                  behavior pops up daily on the Tourons of
                                                                  Yellowstone Facebook page. The bison, by
                                                                  the way, was declared our Official National





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