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Story & Photography by Margie Goldsmith
hen the Irish say “Céad Míle through a maze of trees and blooming
Fáilte” (a hundred thousand shrubs, past Asian statues, a greenhouse, a
welcomes) it truly reflects pond filled with Koi, and cozy shaded seat-
W their spirit of hospitality. And ing areas. With the rooster in a separate
when Northern Ireland’s most famous chef, enclosure nearby, we entered the henhouse
Noel McMeel invited me to stay in his coun- with 21 chickens and 16 chicks. Dessie let
tryside home, it felt as though a Lep- me hold a five-week old chick.
rechaun had gifted me the invitation. The interior of their sun-splashed
Spending time with and eating home- house revolves around the kitchen and
cooked meals by a top chef whom I adore? Noel’s prized possession: his beloved
Yes, please. Rangemaster stove. Noel had prepared tea
With my travel buddy Hilary driving, with homemade breads including Northern
and me in the passenger seat gazing out at Irish wheaten, Irish barmbrack, treacle, and
velvety green fields and country roads banana bread. But that wasn’t all. He’d
shaded by canopies of trees, we headed also made lemon merengue pie, pecan
from Dublin to County Tyrone in Northern maple syrup cookies, thick pancakes and
Ireland. Viennese whirls covered with chocolate.
Going up the driveway of Chef Noel This was, for sure, the jackpot of afternoon
and his partner of 25 years, Dessie teas.
Clements’ home was like entering a botani- The next day, Noel took us to Friels
cal garden. This makes sense because Bar & Restaurant in Swatragh County,
Dessie, who designed the landscaping, is Derry. The bar/restaurant, owned by the
the horticulturalist at Castle Leslie. The Friel family for 120 years, is managed by
lush, manicured lawn was surrounded by the fifth generation owner, Dermot Friel. In
topiaries of every size and shape as well as 1992, Dermot discovered an original famine
colorful tulips, roses, Lupines and endless pot (a huge black cauldron once used in
blooming plants. Dessie led us to the back- soup kitchens to feed the poor) and uncov-
yard where Bailey (a Golden Retriever) and ered a small window where soup would
Tittles (a cat) followed. We strolled have been passed out to feed the poor.
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