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which existed till the 1920s, were a feared
                                                               and hated part of Irish history. Learning
                                                               their history made me realize how difficult
                                                               life was in Ireland and how lucky I am not
                                                               to be poor and to be able to travel.
                                                                      Our final Airbnb was at Fenad Head
                                                               on the northern tip of the peninsula, over-
                                                               looking the Atlantic with sunset views as
                                                               gorgeous and unobstructed as those in
                                                               Derrybag. Again, we never left the house
                                                               after dinner because we were so capti-
                                                               vated by the changing light and the flock
                                                               of sheep right outside our window. On our
                                                               last night, though, just before the sun dis-
                                                               appeared, I whipped out my harmonica
                                                               and played my heart out to the surprised
                                                               sheep.
                                                                  Having been to Ireland 11 times, I
                                                               thought I ‘d seen almost everything. Now I
                                                               know what I’d been missing: visiting Ireland
                                                               in the capacity of a local by staying in cot-
                                                               tages and being fed not in trendy restau-
                                                               rants but by a friend (who in this case
                                                               happened to be the King of Irish Cuisine).
                                                               There’s something to be said about staying
                                                               with friends and in Airbnb’s as opposed to
                                                               hotels where you always feel like a tourist.
                                                                  Next trip maybe we’ll try Noel and
                                                               Dessie’s Airbnb, The Lime Tree House in
                                                               Maguiresbridge, County Fermanagh, a
                                                               black away from town where we can watch
                                                               the local Gaelic football club. Or maybe
                                                               we’ll try a working Irish farm or rent our
                                                               own. I look at a map and realize there’s so
                                                               much in Ireland I have yet to discover, so
                                                               “Céad míle Cét,” which means “I’ll be back
                                                               one hundred thousand hundred times.”
                                                                  Looking for inspiration on where to stay
                                                               and play in Ireland? Visit Ireland.com.


















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