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mosphere featuring outdoor baths sur-
                                                              rounded by nature.


                                                                            Open-Air Museum


                                                                  Hakone is steeped in history and cul-
                                                              ture, with numerous temples, shrines, and
                                                              museums scattered throughout the area.
                                                              The Hakone Open-Air Museum, with its im-
                                                              pressive collection of sculptures and art-
                                                              works set against the backdrop of
                                                              Hakone's natural beauty, provides a cul-
                                                              tural feast for the senses. It made the top
                                                              ten of any outdoor museum we’ve visited
                                                              anywhere in the world. It focuses on 19th
                                                              and 20th century Japanese and Western
                                                              Sculpture works. Artists featured include
                                                              Bourdelle, Despiau, Rodin, and Moore.
                                                              Contemporary sculptures glisten against
                                                              the backdrop of the Hakone mountains.
                                                              Curving paths led us around the garden
                                                              and modern sculptures. Interactive ex-
                                                              hibits and picnic areas make it enjoyable
                                                              for all ages.
                                                                  Staying in a traditional ryokan (Japa-
                                                              nese inn) should be part of the Japanese
                                                              experience. Most make adjustments for
                                                              Westerners, elevating the beds so we
                                                              don’t have to scoot completely down to
                                                              floor level. This would have been fine a
                                                              few decades ago, but the creaking joints
                                                              of today and accompanying groans would
                                                              likely have disturbed the neighbors.
                                                                  We enjoyed Gora Kadan, which has
                                                              been rebuilt in an authentic Japanese
                                                              style. The low-key design blended harmo-
                                                              niously with the landscape, woods, and
                                                              mountain valleys. We shed our kimonos,
                                                              padded across our patio, and slipped into
                                                              a secluded hot spring pool outside our
                                                              room. We relaxed and contemplated the
                                                              lush landscaping all around before a brief
                                                              rain shower added another touch of na-
                                                              ture.  It reminded me of surfing in the rain
                                                              and having amazed people in shelters by
                                                              the beach, asking how we could do that
                                                              (we were already wet!).



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