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off-dry (demi-sec) to sweet (moelleux or Because of the warmer climates in its
doux), and excellent sparkling wines. Vou- different appellations, the style of South
vray and Montlouis are traditionally fruitier African Chenin Blanc generally tends to be
in style, depending upon the ripeness of fruitier and often fuller-bodied than those
each vintage, with distinct hints of mineral- from the Loire. This is a direct result of the
ity in the latter. sunnier, warmer climate, which can be
For bigger style and minerality, said of the wines of California.
look for Savennières. They have The key regions are Stellenbosch,
sharp acidity in their youth and a Franschhoek, and Paarl, known for
complex green apple and lime nose, clean, crisp, fruity, tasty dry white
and they will gain lushness with age. wines. Swartland has old, gnarled, of-
Sweet Chenin Blanc comes from ten bush-trained vines that naturally
the Côteaux du Layon and its grand yield fewer grapes. As with any other
cru appellations, Quarts de Chaume varietal on old vines, these Chenin
and Bonnezeaux. These regions are Blanc wines tend to have deeper
legendary for their intensely fruit and more complexity.
sweet, botrytized wines. As in California and Beyond:
Sauternes, the noble rot concen- Global Expressions
trates the sugars and flavors in Eric Asimov of The New York
the grapes, yielding unctuous Times called Chenin Blanc the
wines with incredible depth. workhorse of white wines in
Typical descriptors include fla- California in the 1970s and
vors of dried apricot, peach, 1980s. In 1982, it had 45,000
and exotic spices, all balanced acres under production, more
by good acidity that ensures than Chardonnay. The wines
freshness and longevity. were primarily used in cheap
South Africa: The "Steen" jug wines. Charles Krug pro-
Renaissance duced a semi-sweet version
Chenin Blanc has found a that sold 100,000 cases a year.
second, vibrant home in South In the mid-1980s, vintners
Africa. Historically known as started replacing Chenin Blanc
"Steen," it is the country's most with higher-priced varietals, in-
widely planted grape, white or cluding Chardonnay, Sauvi-
red. The quality of the wines is gnon Blanc, and Cabernet
uniformly high, no matter the price. The Sauvignon. In 2023, Chardonnay
country dominates all price categories in led white wine acreage in California at
the annual Global Wine Masters Competi- 85,879 acres, followed by Sauvignon Blanc
tions, managed by Wine Business Monthly, (16,419), French Colombard (15,463 for this
with its distinguished panel of judges in- jug wine grape), Pinot Gris (15,278), and
cluding Masters of Wine, Master Somme- Chenin Blanc (3,767).
liers, and senior buyers. California Chenin Blanc is on the rise.
The judges reported that South Africa Winemakers from Clarksburg, Mendocino,
produces some of the world's most com- Sonoma, and Santa Barbara Counties make
pelling and high-quality Chenin Blancs, of- tasty wines priced from $13 to $55. The
ten rating them higher than wines from California weather contributes to a good
France and the United States, and at lower depth of fruit, and the different appella-
prices. tions add character.
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