Page 128 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL 2023 DISCOVERING TURKEY
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THE UNDERGROUND CITIES OF CAPPADOCIA


              Subterranean cities in Cappadocia are as fa-    local remodeling his home found a passage
            mous as the fairy chimneys above them. They       leading to Derinkuyu, built during the Arab-
            were likely built during the                                     Byzantine wars between 780
            eighth and seventh centuries                                     and 1180. This vast 18-story city
            by Phrygians, Indo-Euro-                                         once housed 20,000 citizens.
            peans living in central Tur-                                       We visited the smaller Kay-
            key. Although the cities of                                      makli Underground City. The
            Derinkuyu and Kaymakli are                                       UNESCO World Heritage Site is
            well known, there are around                                     challenging to explore, with
            200 known underground                                            steeper tunnels and narrower
            cities in the region.                                            passageways than the larger De-
              All were carved to protect                                     rinkuyu. It sheltered up to
            inhabitants from their ene-                                      3,500 local inhabitants for sev-
            mies. When threatened, folks                                     eral centuries throughout the
            disappeared underground                                          Arab-Byzantine wars.
            until the coast was clear. In                                      Kaymakli has eight levels, al-
            the 14th century, Christians                                     though only the first four are
            took advantage of these                                          open for touring. There are no
            bunkers to hide from the                                         elevators, and few proper walk-
            Mongolians.                                                      ways. Its builders deliberately
              Abandoned and almost forgotten, these           carved narrow doorways and tunnels to make
            refuges weren’t rediscovered until 1923. Then a   passage difficult for their enemies. For the peo-
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