Page 148 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2019 PORTUGAL

Moutarderie Edmond Fallot and La Maison Maille. La Menuiserie is a Conde Nast Traveler-recommended
When the walking tour was done we made a bee-line place just a block from the city’s historic food market.
back to both of them. It’s small -- seven tables inside and three out under an
Both places had “tasting stations” and we sampled awning – and when we arrived on a Saturday evening
every variety available. When we were about to try the it was completely packed. Ben is a master at finding
last of five tastes at Fallot’s, a fellow tourist stopped the most interesting restaurants and this might have
us. “That one’s really hot,” he said. “You’ve got too been one of his best.
much on your tasting spoon!” La Menuiserie’s got a homey, café vibe and rather than
You would have gotten a chuckle out of that. Hot? Sure. traditional main courses, the chef, Nicholas De Linage,
But, we’ve both traveled all over Mexico; we’ve been to features quirky even playful tapas for dinner. That
Thailand. This was child’s play. Still, it made us eager to doesn’t mean La Menuiserie isn’t serious about cuisine.
dive into the full mustard experience. For starters, it has an 18-page wine list.
Which is why, two days later, after Ben and Job had So, for starters, the four of us ordered three glasses of
returned to Germany, Jody and I were in line to tour reds: a Coteaux Bourguignons, a Pernand Vergelesse
Fallot’s Moutarderie in the nearby town of Beaune. But and a Pepin Rouge. We took sips from all three and
it wasn’t another boutique shop, this was a mustard tried to discuss them like educated oenophiles. Is this
factory. one more complex? Is this one more astringent? Does
The Fallot factory tour lead directly to our criminal this one have a hint of chocolate?
aspirations with mustard. But before I explain, let me By the time we’d passed them around a couple of
insert one note about Dijon’s deserved culinary times, we were faced with three half-filled glasses of
reputation. That note concerns restaurant La Menuiserie. red wine and had no clue which one was which.

148 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE WINTER/SPRING 2024