Page 96 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2019 PORTUGAL
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erate range of pricing to go with starters and beaches, and festivities throughout the year.
then game and beef dishes. We were delighted We started at the top of a hill with the Cas-
with a fresh, crisp white blend of Viura, Mal- tle of Charles V, destroyed during World War
vasia, and Garnacha Blanca for under 40€. He II and turned into a National Parador in 1968
selected the 2011 Bodegas Muga Rioja Gran after extensive renovations and reconstruc-
Reserva Prado Enea for the red, around 120€. tions. It is now a popular, elegant, small hotel
The Prado Enea (80% Tempranillo, 20% Gar- with just 36 rooms, in-
nacha; unfiltered and cluding six suites. The
fined with egg whites; hotel's decor is eclectic,
three years in the bar- combining traditional
rels; five years in bottle and modern elements.
before release) has be- Ask for a tour to get a
come one of our fa- feeling for its relaxing,
vorites to buy back in classic vibe. It has a
the U.S. (usually fine Basque restaurant
around $80). and cozy bar. Some of
We shared two our friends stayed there
starters among the four and made a day trip to
of us: red prawn San Sebastian, the re-
carpaccio with gua- verse of our plan.
camole and pistachio For enjoying the
vinaigrette (42€) and coast, Hondarribia's
the clams in parsley beach is great for recre-
sauce (45€). One cou- ation or just loafing. It
ple shared the grilled has lifeguards, bath-
venison with pears (38€) and the other the rooms, showers, changing rooms, and activi-
traditional grilled filet mignon with green ties to keep children entertained. We were told
peppers and a side of frites (35€). The staff it is excellent for people-watching during the
glided in and out, orchestrating a well-paced summer, but it does get crowded.
evening, and provided excellent service with-
Hondaribbia has festivals throughout the
out being intrusive.
year to celebrate just about anything related to
If you have time, which we didn’t on this Basque history and culture, with some reli-
trip, our guide said history buffs will enjoy gious festivals. We were fortunate to be wan-
Miramar Palace, an ornate palace built for the dering near the Parador when the plaza was
Spanish royal family in the 19th century. In suddenly filled with hundreds of people in tra-
the afternoon, visit the San Telmo Museum, ditional Basque white shirts and red scarves
which celebrates Basque culture and history. dancing and singing. The happy celebrants
The 16th-century building is home to an im- circled the square in big conga lines while
pressive collection of artifacts and exhibits. teams brought large papier-mâché and wood
statues to different sides of the plaza. The
Happening Hondaribbia statues, like giant caricatures, represent his-
torical or mythical Basque characters. The
spirit of the people, the color, and lively scene
For delving into additional Basque charac-
make us smile whenever we reminisce about
ter and culture on a smaller scale, venture up
the unexpected pleasures of travel anywhere.
the coast to Hondarribia, with an impressive
Check the website to see if you can fit one of
Parador, lively old town, coastal walk, fine
their festivals into your travel planning.
96 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE WINTER/SPRING 2024
