Page 95 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2019 PORTUGAL
P. 95
French, but just settled back and basked in the guide's favorite. The chef kept tempting us
warmth of the scene, another future memory with new dishes. Some highlights of how they
from Basque Country. use creative combinations of ingredients to go
We started the next day with a morning beyond the ordinary and expected with con-
stroll along the Playa de la Concha, a sparkling trasting flavors and textures:
beach lined with Belle Epoque architecture.
For perspective and photographic fun, above it • Gilda – a classic pintxo found every-
all, visit Mount Urgull to enjoy drone-level where, with a green pepper, a pickled an-
views of the region, city, and curving coastline chovy, and a stuffed olive on a skewer.
from four different vantage points. • Txalupa – A baguette topped with
creamy goat cheese and a drizzle of honey.
Enjoying Old Town • Chistorra – Grilled Basque sausage
served on a slice of artisan bread.
Take a day to wander San Sebastian's Old • Croqueta – The Basque version of a
Town (La Parte Vieja), located at the foot of croquet, with a deep-fried ball of creamy
Mount Urgull and surrounded by the sea on bechamel sauce, with ham or cheese or
one side and the River Urumea on the other, to both.
get a feeling for the city, its color, subtleties, • Bacalao – Salt cod served on a slice of
sites, restaurants, bars, and examples of local artisan bread with tomato and pepper
culture and history. Plaza de la Constitución, sauce (great with the local white wine).
one of the region’s most famous squares, hums
with activity and energy, including from the
For going beyond grazing on our last night
many bars and
in San Sebastian, we
restaurants. It has
secured a table at
two significant
Rekondo, a tradi-
churches, Santa
tional Basque
Maria Church and
restaurant known
San Vicente Church,
globally as a mecca
which are a walk
of wine. The restau-
back in time and
rant is a short cab
provide insights into
ride from town on
the religious history
the road up to Mt.
of San Sebastian and
Igueldo. The dining
a serene and cerebral
rooms blend contem-
contrast to the lively
porary design with a
street scenes.
classic feel and am-
Old Town is fa- biance from the
mous for its vibrant tasteful furnishings,
culinary scene and as a "pintxos paradise.”
fixtures, soft colors, and textures. The feeling
Book a pintxo tour with one of the local guides is high-end but relaxing and comfortable, not
to get the most out of your gastronomic adven- stuffy.
tures. We grazed with our guide through sev-
Rekondo has over 125,000 bottles in its cel-
eral local bars and restaurants, including
lar, from century-old classics to the latest
Ganbara, for those who enjoy a lively atmos-
wines from Rioja and other parts of Spain,
phere with high energy, and the more tradi-
France, Italy, and Germany. We asked the
tional Bar La Cepa (opened in 1948), our
sommelier for a recommendation in the mod-
WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM 95