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short walk from the nearby tiny town of Woodstock,   mony or taste.”
            was always very dear to Churchill, who was also bap-        Even American-born Consuelo Vanderbilt
            tized in the chapel here, proposed marriage here, and   Balsan--who reigned here for 11 years (1895-1906) as
            is buried nearby.                                 the Duchess of Marlborough when she was unhap-
                   Located 65 miles north of London in Oxford-  pily married to the 9th Duke (in a forced, loveless,
            shire, the 18th century Baroque-style Blenheim Pal-  $2.5 million financial arrangement to restore the
            ace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is surrounded by   property)--commented: “It is strange that in so great
            a gorgeously green 2,000 acre park, with exquisite   a house there should not be one really livable room.
            Italian gardens, fountains and the Grand Bridge.  The   It’s planned to impress rather than to please. . . .”
            stunning estate has a fascinating, yet controversial,         The “house” later known as Blenheim Palace
            300-year-old history.                             came about in 1705 as a gift from Queen Anne to a
                  The site of concerts, celebrity wedding recep-  52-year-old soldier from humble beginnings, John
            tions, and numerous films (including “The Young   Churchill, who commanded the British forces dur-
            Victoria” and the television series “The Royals”), it’s
            been home for generations of the Marlborough and
            Spencer-Churchill clan (including ancestors of the
            late Princess Diana).  They include some colorful,
            eccentric characters who encompassed greed, jeal-
            ousy, paranoia, estrangement, infidelity, ruthlessness,
            snobbery.
                   It was here in the vast Saloon--known as the
            State Dining Room, richly decorated with wall fres-
            coes, murals, and painted ceiling, and which seats up
            to 30--that Lady Nancy Astor made her infamous
            comment to her archrival Winston Churchill: “If I were
            your wife I would put poison in your coffee!”
                   To which Churchill retorted, “And if I were your
            husband I would drink it!”
                   Today the warm, hospitable home of the 12th
            Duke and Duchess of  Marlborough, it’s been re-
            ferred to both as “Britain’s Versailles” (even British
            royalty was dazzled by the opulence:  King George III
            once exclaimed, “We have nothing to equal this”)--
            and as “The Dump” by Laura, Duchess of Marlbor-
            ough, widow of Bert, the 10th Duke.
                    And there have been other critics throughout
            the years.  Noel Coward, once a guest, complained
            that his bedroom was “the coldest room I have ever
            encountered” and that he “woke frozen. . .shaving
            sheer agony...loo like an icebox.”
                    Observed the French writer Voltaire:  “If the
            apartments were only as large as the walls are thick,
            the mansion would be convenient enough.”
                    And Alexander Pope once referred to it as “the
            most inhospitable thing imaginable and the most
            selfish. . .I never saw so great a thing with so much
            littleness in it. . .It’s a great pile of stone without har-


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