Page 72 - WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE DISCOVERING ENGLAND
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auai is the oldest and northern- For fun and games, there are, of course, the   market,  we  shopped  for  Kauai–grown
                   most  of  the  four  major  Hawai-  beaches  and  all  they  offer:  surfing,  snor-  coffee,  local  honey  and  Portuguese  sweet
                   ian  Islands  –  and  its  64,000   keling,  swimming,  scuba  diving,  sunbath-  bread – fixings suitable for a picnic during
          Kresidents  aim  to  preserve  its   ing. Beyond that, there are rivers to kayak,  a bike ride along the Koloa Heritage Trial –
           rugged, relaxed individuality as well as its   mountains and valleys to hike, forests and   a mostly flat ramble past 14 markers that
           wild natural beauty:  Only 5 percent of the   waterfalls for ziplining over. There are leis   point out sites important to local history
           island’s  552  square  miles  are  designated   to wear, hulas to learn, lilikoi (passion fruit)   and culture.  We shared the road with cluck-
           for  urban  development  –  and  building   lemonades to drink  – straight or infused   ing chickens; they roam free everywhere.
           guidelines prohibit structures higher than   with locally made Koloa rum.  Another  day,  we  toured  the  Allerton  Na-
           a  mature  coconut  palm.  The  island’s  ma-  With  a  San  Diego  friend,  I  spent  a  week   tional Tropical Botanical Garden, once the
           jor highway is a two-lane road that stops
                                                                                  mid-19th  -century  retreat  for  Hawaii’s
                                              based  on  Kauai’s  sunny  southern  Poipu
           short of the impenetrable Napali Coast and   Coast.  At  Ko’a  Kea,  one  of  the  newer  Queen Emma. Today the garden is a mas-
           leaves much of the island’s interior inacces-  (opened  in  spring  2009)  luxe  hotels  on   terpiece  of  landscape  design,  merging
           sible by car.   Locals take pride in maintain-  the  island,  we  sat  on  our  oceanfront  bal-  stunning  natural  beauty  with  man-made
           ing  narrow  single-lane  bridges  that  don’t   cony, sipping morning espresso (from the   art  presented  in  outdoor  “rooms”.    Like
           accommodate tour buses.
                                              in-room  espresso  maker)  as  we  watched   little  kids,  we  posed  for  photos,  tucked
           There’s little hustle-bustle here; it’s easy to   kama’aina (longtime locals) use traditional   between  the  massive  roots  of  the  gar-
           feel you’re a part of old Hawaii.   lei nets to fish the reefs out front.  Later that   den’s  Moreton  Bay  fig  trees,  near  the
                                              afternoon we snorkeled those same reefs.   spot  where  director  Steven  Spielberg  hid
           Still, the island has every comfort and con-                           raptor eggs in “Jurassic Park”.
           venience a visitor might crave – from five- We strolled the wooden sidewalks of Koloa,
           star hotels to plate-lunch trucks and camp-  a town that sugar plantations built nearly  After  we  moved  mid-week  to  an  ocean-
           grounds.  Kauai even has Costco.   two  centuries  ago.    At  the  neighborhood   front  condo  at  Whalers  Cove,  we  began



            72    Wine Dine & Travel  Winter 2014
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