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to feel even more like locals. We shopped
          for  dinner  at  the  tiny  family  owned  Ko-
          loa Fish Market (fishers deliver their daily
          catches  around  4  p.m.)  and  stocked  our
          freezer with Lappert’s Kauai Pie ice cream,
          a  super-sinful  addictive  mix  of  Kona  cof-
          fee ice cream swirled with fudge, macada-
          mia nuts and coconut flakes.
         “It  feels  like  it’s  our  island,”  said  Cindi
          Lambert,  my  San  Diego  friend.  “It’s  so
          easy to fit into the small-town neighborly
          ambiance.  You  don’t  feel  like  a  tourist
         – unless you want to.”
          Exploring Napali
          Cindi is an experienced hiker and once tack-
          led the Napali Coast’s Kalalau Trail, a treach-
          erous  22-mile  roundtrip.  “You’re  on  slick
          red clay on a trail that might be onlyw as
          wide as your pack,” she recalled. “The wind’s
          blowing – and then it starts to rain – and
          you’re  cautiously  tip-toeing  along.  You’re
          on the edge of cliff that’s 1,000 or more feet
          above the raging sea.  You’re lucky to do a
          mile an hour. It’s absolutely fantastic.”
          This  time  we  opted  to  check  out  Napali’s
          staggering emerald-meets-sapphire beauty,
          its  razor-edge  cliffs  and  isolated  beaches,
          from the air (in a helicopter) and from the
          sea (in a catamaran).
          In 2010, AOL Travel labeled Kauai helicop-
          ter  tours  one  of  the  10  most  dangerous
          tourist  attractions  in  the  world.    Scary?
          Darn right – from the moment we booked
          our reservations when an agent asked how
          much each of us weighs, to the harrowing
          truth-or-flee scene at base when we were
          ordered on to a scale.
         “It’s an FAA rule,” Shanda Gallagher at Blue
          Hawaiian  Helicopters  explained.    There
          were seven of us – and loading the copter
          was orderly, according to weight, so that the
          big bird’s load was evenly distributed.
          Once  airborne,  we  skimmed  the  Waimea
          Canyon, a two-mile-wide, 3,500-foot-deep,
          cloud-frosted gorge dubbed the Grand Can-
          yon of the Pacific.

          Opposite top: Bird’s eye view of Kauai from a helicopter
          tour.  Top:  A local inspecting a tropical flower at Allerton
          Garden. Right: The  Kauai shoreline.








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