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dozens more small neighborhood mar-
kets. About 3 million visitors join the
celebration each December.
The best place to start is the city’s Main
Market, aglitter against the neo-goth-
ic backdrop of the historic town hall,
where the market tradition began in
the 14th century. More than 100 wood-
en stalls here still sell predominantly
Bavarian crafts and foods. Aromas of
sizzling bratz, roasting nuts and fresh-
made crepes permeate the air.

It’s hard to tell where one market stops
and another begins in Munich’s old
town. The Main Market bleeds into the
Kripperlmarkt, which has been selling
exquisite handcrafted manger scenes
(and accoutrements) since 1757. The
savory scent of spit-roasting pig is a
sure sign you’ve reached the Medieval
Market.

Steps away, the carefree effervescence
of little voices means you’re approach-
ing Weichnachtsdorf der Residenz, a
magical children’s Christmas village.
Just beyond, at the town hall’s “Heav-
enly Workshop,” staffers from the city’s
Children’s Museum help kids 6-12 years
old craft holiday gifts, bake gingerbread
cookies – and get into the holiday spirit
by dressing up as Christmas angels. It’s
all free.
Across town at the Chinaturn Market,
children learn traditional woodcraft-
ing at Opa's (grandpa's) cottage – while
their parents partake at the market’s
traditional beer garden. At Schwabing
Market, visitors shop for original art –
everything from paintings and pottery
to hats and handbags. Shoppers can
meet more than 100 artists, from all
over Germany, whose juried pieces are
for sale.

I spent one evening at Tollwood – a
grand alternative fest that focuses more
on ethnic cultures and the environment
than traditional Christmas fare. Think
organic foods (including vegan options)
and exhibits with an ecological or social
message. Staged at the fairgrounds in
a series of huge tents, there’s a range
of international entertainment – from
Cirque-style shows to interactive art in-
stallations.
The most crowded Munich Christ-
mas market is also one of its smallest:
the "Pink Market." It was the first gay

38 Wine Dine & Travel 2016