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markets in Nuremberg – all with- Steps away, the Markt der Partner-
in a few steps of each other in the stadt (Sister Cities Market) adds
heart of the city’s old town. The international flair to Nuremberg’s
main market includes 180 stalls, holiday scene. About two dozen cit-
assembled in long rows under red- ies from around the world – from
and-white-striped awnings, in Atlanta to Venice – sponsor stalls
the city’s historic market square. offering arts, crafts and foods from
“There are 200 vendors on the wait- their home nations. Venice did brisk
ing list,” said Ingrid Petermann, a business selling masks and pizza; At-
city guide. “We have limited space; lanta fans lined up for Jack Daniels
if we spread out to more space, it and Jim Beam.
just wouldn’t be the same atmo-
sphere. In the 17th century there “All Partnerstadt profits go to charity,”
were 140 booths.” Petermann explained. “That’s what Christmas is about – or
should be about, isn’t it?”
Multiple stalls offer food and drink – the city’s famous ginger-
bread (Lebkuchen) and of course, sausages and glühwein. I Nuremberg’s Kinderweihnact, its children’s Christmas mar-
quickly learned two important lessons: A Nuremberg brat is ket, is its youngest. It began in 1999 – and offers a wide selec-
no ordinary sausage. It must weight 20-25 grams (less than tion of family friendly fun: old-fashioned kiddie rides, yummy
an ounce) and be 7-9 centimeters (about 3 inches) long. “This eats and hands-on adventures such as decorating and baking
makes them good; they’re so roasty crusty,” said Nuremberger gingerbread cookies. It’s magical fun.
Karola Gartner. “The rules have been around for 700 years.”
These are the only sausages you’ll find at the Nuremberg I spent my last night in Nuremberg soaking up more magic:
Christmas market – usually served three to a bun. the Nuremberg Opera’s production of "Hansel & Gretel.” This
opera is a holiday tradition for Nuremberg families; even on a
The second lesson: As temps dip at night, a steaming mug of Monday night, every seat in the century old opera house was
hot mulled wine is an excellent hand warmer. And a pretty filled – many by children. For a few hours, I became part of
good body warmer, too. the family.
Only authentic handcrafted items are permitted for sale at Next stop: Munich.
Nuremberg Christmas stalls. Mass-produced kitsch is a sure
ticket to banishment. Even canned music is prohibited here – Silly me. I allotted only two nights here, but needed way more
so what visitors hear is real: brass bands, choirs, laughter and time. Munich has 22 “official” Christmas markets. They’re
the squeals of excited children. spread all over town, including at the airport. Plus, there are

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