Page 116 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL EATING IBERIA

into a hotel and tour the Gothic Cathedral of rounding plains. And in Miravet, another artistic
Santa Maria, which hunkers above a compact enclave filled with painters, potters, sculptors and
labyrinth of tunnels used as a bomb shelter during photographers, we march up steep streets flanked
the Spanish Civil War. Following a steamy morn- by terraced stone houses to the ruins of a 12th
ing’s ride on the Via Verde to Pinell de Brai, we century Knights Templar fortress, offering a spec-
feast on octopus, local cheese, cured meats and tacular panorama of the river’s serpentine path
fresh cherries washed down with swoon-inducing below.
wines at the soaring Wine Cathedral, an Art Nou- But when I think back on this trip, it’s the
veau brick and stone edifice housing a restaurant, memory of the placid blue bay of El Fangar that
the Pagos de Hibera winery, and a museum of will serve as my favorite souvenir—a mental post-
wine-making. card of a place where the sea melts into the sky
In the medieval hilltop town of Horta de Sant like a maritime mirage. Although I won’t soon for-
Joan, where Picasso invented Cubism—and where get the ache in my backside either, perhaps per-
replicas of his works fill a small museum—we’re manently imprinted with the outline of my bike
rewarded with views of the craggy mountains of seat now. Next time, I’m plumping for padded
Els Ports National Park, punctuating the sur- shorts, even if I do look like a Lycra-clad sausage.

116 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2020