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Themuseum’sexhibitstracethehistoryofmajorship-
                                                              wrecks,ofwhichthebestknownistheEdmundFitzgerald,
                                                              whichsank17milesnorthofWhitefishPointinNovember
                                                              1975. The museum is operated by the Great Lakes Ship-
                                                              wreckHistoricalSociety,whichhelpedfundanexpedition
                                                              in 1995 that explored the wreckage of the giant freighter
                                                              andsalvageditsbell.Thebellwasunveiledinachurchcer-
                                                              emony that honored the 29 crew members who never re-
                                                              turned home, to provide some closure to their surviving
                                                              family members. The museum shows a film about that ex-
                                                              pedition that is quite moving, and a visit to the museum is
                                                              well worth the $13 price of admission.
                                                                  We were now at the very edge of Whitefish Point,
                                                              which extends northward toward Ontario to form White-
                                                              fishBay,asortofvestibuleforshipsontheirwaytotheSoo
                                                              Locks.Bynowthewindandrainweresofiercewecouldn’t
                                                              venture to the lakeshore itself, and instead headed south
                                                              and inland, away from the lake and toward Tahquamenon
                                                              State Park.
                                                                  This park is home to the Upper and Lower Tahqua-
                                                              menonfalls,twooftheU.P.’s300cascadingrapidsandwa-
                                                              terfalls.

                                                                  Upper Tahquamenon is the peninsula’s most magnifi-
                                                              cent waterfall, and among the most magnificent nation-
                                                              wide. A rolling river 200 feet across cascades 50 feet
                                                              straight down in a curtain of caramel-colored foam. The
                                                              U.P.’s rivers are distinctive for their russet color, which is
                                                              caused by cedar trees leaching tannins into local waters.
                                                              Upper Tahquamenon is the best example of this phenom-
                                                              enon, as these falls resemble a torrent of frothy Frappuc-
                                                              cino.
                                                                  Lower Tahquamenon Falls are not quite so dramatic,
                                                              butarebeautifullysituatedalongaboskystream.Itispos-
                                                              sibletorentaboatandpaddletoanislandforabetterview
                                                              ofthesefalls, butwepassedontheexperience.Idoubtwe
                                                              could have managed in the rain.
                                                                  WehadhopedtoventureoutontoLakeSuperiorona
                                                              sightseeing boat, to take in the colorful cliffs and rock for-
                                                              mations that comprise Pictured Rocks National
                                                              Lakeshore.Superiorhadotherideas,however,asthewind
                                                              churned the lake’s surface so violently that boat conces-
                                                              sionaires declined to sail.
                                                                  The only navigation we dared undertake was aboard
                                                              a raft at Kitch-Iti-Kipi spring, one of the U.P.’s secret trea-
                                                              sures.Theword“spring”barelycoversthisnaturalwonder,
                                                              which consists of a small spring-fed lake ensconced in
                                                              Palms Book State Park. The raft is large enough for about


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