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in the memorable movie "Sleepless in Seattle."       And Amtrak has another newfound feather
               "Tiramisu," Reiner says, off the cuff.       in its hat -- climate change.
               "What is tiramisu?" Hanks asks.                     Increasingly, the system is being heralded
                                                            as a way to minimize our collective carbon foot-
               "You'll find out," says Reiner.
                                                            print by getting out of cars and planes and into
               "Well, what is it?"                          trains, unbeatable as transportation among con-
               "You'll see!"                                cerned environmental citizens. We found this out
               "Some woman is gonna want me to do it to her  on our trip -- people going out of their way to take
            and I'm not gonna know what it is!" said Hanks.  the train for this very reason.
               "You'll love it," says Reiner.                    We started up the coast from San Diego on
               Well, we didn't try tiramisu at the market-  Amtrak's frequent Pacific Surfliner service. touch-
                                                            ing the beach at Del Mar, Carlsbad and San
            place, but there were plenty of other temptations
                                                            Clemente before changing trains at Los Angeles
            for foodies and others as we walked among the in-
            door stalls. Fresh fish, especially salmon, called out  Union Station, an architectural gem.
            for us to sample.                                    There, waiting for us, the gleaming two-level
                                                            Coast Starlight was ready for our trip to the Pacific
               Breakfast? No worry. Our hotel had a full-scale
                                                            Northwest.
            Starbucks just off the lobby. My credit card had
            just alerted me to a 10 percent discount offered on   We quickly found our accommodations on
            purchases at the coffee behemoth. And, if you're a  the lower level of a sleeping car. Home for us would
            real Starbucks groupie, you can take a selfie out-  be an enclosed compartment measuring roughly 6
            side the original shop, still pouring lattes, across  1/2 feet by 3 1/2 feet, with two facing seats during
            from Pike Place Market. It was established in   daylight and a big picture window. At night, the
            1971.                                           attendant converted the
                                                            space  into  two  beds,
               Further keeping the cost of this adventure
            down, my digital buddies at Lyft had emailed me a  bunk-style. The top bed
                                                            had a strap to buckle
            10 percent off voucher, which made getting
                                                            yourself in if the ride got
            around Seattle cheap, when combined with $2.75
            express bus service.                            rocky and a personal
                                                            reading light along with
               This was going to be a good trip, I thought. Af-
                                                            an area for essentials
            ter all, I'm a die-hard rail fan. But I had strayed. My
                                                            such as glasses and wal-
            rail adventures in recent years have taken me to  lets. Down the hall, just a
            Europe, especially Great Britain, where there's an
                                                            few paces, were several
            endless assortment of high-speed and quirky
                                                            toilets and a separate
            back-country routes with frequent service. I had  shower   compartment
            stayed clear of Amtrak, fearing it would be beset
                                                            with towels.
            with problems over a lack of funding and severe
                                                                Despite our 6 a.m.
            operational troubles.
                                                            start in downtown San
               Not so, we found. The Wall Street Journal    Diego, the trip north was
            summed up my feelings in a recent story. "For a
                                                            everything I had hoped it
            company coming off its best year ever, Amtrak
                                                            would be -- surfers along California's coast, rolling
            faces a strange challenge in 2020: convincing its  fields of gold grasslands, seemingly endless groves
            owner, the federal government, that the railroad is
                                                            of almond trees and back-yard views through the
            running in the right direction.
                                                            Bay Area with glimpses of San Francisco's sky-
                "The national passenger railroad reported an  scrapers. But stark reality also came to life as we
            adjusted operating loss of $29.8 million in the fis-  passed track-side homeless camps in cities large
            cal year ended Sept. 30, the best financial perfor-  and small along the way.
            mance in Amtrak’s nearly 50-year history."

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