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and are a better value. The Nahargarht, our hotel in
          Ranthambohr, our base camp for tiger watching in
          vain,  was  particularly  stunning,  resembling  a  sul-
          tan’s palace. It also served the best food, with the
          outdoor BBQ dinner being the most spectacular.

          Check to see if your hotel offers an executive upgrade
          for an extra $25 to $30 nightly. The program usually
          includes an upgraded room, shuttle service, special
          meal service and a happy hour with complementary
          food and drinks. Given the high cost of wines, this
          easily pays for itself after a couple drinks.
          The Loo: Let’s face it, one of the top issues on ev-
          ery traveler’s mind is the facilities - the men’s and
          ladies’ rooms. And deservedly so. Public facilities in
          this country are challenging and in many cases dis-
          gusting. Most Indians lack indoor plumbing, which
          explains the countless men you’ll see pissing in the

          Opposite top:  Shopping for stunning India textiles in Jaipur.
          Opposite bottom: All kinds of  fascinating treasures to be found
          in Mumbai’s Thieve’s Market. Top:  The amazing  palatial resort
          Nahargarht in Ranthambore. Right: Mary shows off our humble
          room at Nahargarht.


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