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The authors trying to keep their balance after a
            ride on a cute elephant at Amber Fort in Jaipur.
            Opposite  An amazing outdoor feast at the Na-
            hargarht in Ranthambohr..







          dia. We found wine to be very expensive and often undrink-  them in silence and walk on.
          able. A local wine like Sula, for example, tasted like Two Buck   Rapes  and  worse  in  India  have  grabbed  headlines  recently.
          Chuck, but cost around $40 a bottle ( due to high-government   While we found India to be safe, we had a driver and guide to
          tarrifs). Buying wine in small beverage shops is problematic,   help keep us out of trouble. Use common sense while travel-
          since most don’t have air conditioning and wine suffers in the   ing anywhere. Avoid walking alone and keep valuables secure
          extreme heat. That’s why our wine time turned into martini   in the hotel safe.
          time in India.
                                                               End of the road:
          Traffic:
                                                              The  advice  and  observations  in  this  feature  come  from  not
          Traffic is a disaster in most Indian cities, with Mumbai taking   only our India experiences but our many other travels around
          the prize for road insanity. Indian drivers communicate with   the globe. We hope they are helpful. As we noted in the begin-
          their horns – all the time. Stop signs, traffic lanes and stop   ning, India is not for the faint of heart. But despite the chal-
          lights are mere suggestions unless there’s a policeman in view.   lenges and deep emotions travel here will engender, the trip is
          Indians drive on the right side of the road and don’t stop for   worth it.  If you plan your trip and know what to expect, a visit
          pedestrians as much as weave around them. If you’re going
          to cross the street a good tip is to look for locals crossing the   to this crazy, exotic land will be the highlight of your travels as
                                                               well. Namaste, my friend.
          road and walk with them.
          Beggars and Cons:
                                                               Namaste: an ancient Sanskrit greeting still in everyday
          People hustling or begging for money are unfortunate facts of   use in India and Nepal. Roughly, it means “I bow to the
          life in this country with its extreme poverty. In Mumbai, they   God within you”, or “The Spirit within me salutes the Spir-
          were especially prevalent around the tourist-favorite Gateway   it in you” - a knowing that we are all made from the same
          of India. In general, don’t give in, even if a beggar with infant   One Divine Consciousness.
          in arms follows you for blocks. The best strategy is to ignore



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