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to speak. Two friends from San Diego de- arrive, you won’t want to leave.
cided it sounded like fun, and came with
me. Talking about my passion for solving The steep, narrow winding cobblestone
the mysteries surrounding Franz Kafka streets are bathed in color, lined with
was rewarding, but the highlight for me well-preserved colonial-era buildings that
was the intellectual stimulation, the feast house private homes, restaurants, shops,
of fascinating people, international au- art institutions and galleries. Solitary
thors, playwrights and poets. It was an im- burros, laden with bags of grain or straw,
mediate inclusion into a cultural commu- stand motionless for hours, apparently
nity, and allowed me to absorb the charms untended. According to readers of Conde
of Paris in an authentic Parisian milieu. It Nast Traveler, San Miguel de Allende
was the best ten days of my adult life. boasts “great atmosphere, excellent res-
taurants, culture and ambiance galore. The
So it was with that impossibly high ex- lack of street lights and billboards make
pectation that I accepted an invitation to the region romantically and historically
speak at the 9th Annual San Miguel de beautiful,” and “offers a traditional feeling
Allende Literary Festival and Writers Con- of a small town in the heart of Mexico.” It
ference, held in February 2014. I had ev- is a magical place.
ery reason to believe this would be an even
more dazzling peak experience. This time, Billed as the “Creative Crossroads of the
Byron LaDue, my husband and the father Americas,” the San Miguel Writers Con-
of my book, could join me. I spread the ference and Literary Festival grew from
word via social media, and a dozen friends humble origins in 2006 to the largest bi-
and fellow San Diegans signed up for the lingual and bicultural writer’s conference
conference package. It was already a party. in Latin America. My favorite writers had

preceded me. Tom Robbins wrote that if
Located in Guanajuato, in the high des- “Dante had spent more time in San Miguel,
ert mountains north of Mexico City, San he would have written more about heaven
Miguel de Allende is the new must-visit and less about hell.” After the legendary
destination. Cho- Friday night Fiesta,
sen by Condé Nast Barbara Kingsolver
Traveler as the said, “it’s one of the
number one city ten best parties I
in the world for have ever attended,
2013, San Miguel and I don’t remem-
Photo courtesy WIKI commons
is a UNESCO World ber the other nine.”
Heritage City, a
harmonious com- The Festival is head-
munity comprised quartered at the
of Mexicans, na- lovely Hotel Real de
tive Indians, and Minas, where the
expat Americans extensive grounds
and Canadians, who comprise about ten provide a peaceful respite from the hub-
percent of their adopted city. Blessed with bub of activities. The sparkling pool and
near perfect weather, SMA (as the locals shaded green lawn, dotted with pillows
conference offers benefits. If the festival or call it) is a thriving center of art, culture, and blankets, present inviting spots to
conference is headquartered at a hotel, it’s and history. As early as the mid-1500s, lounge, sip margaritas, nap and read
often an iconic one, comfortable, safe, and San Miguel de Allende was an important between the seven keynote and general
perfectly situated to enjoy the city, with stop on the road between the silver mines session speakers, workshops and classes,
room discounts, tickets to events, and meal in the north and Mexico City. Today, it’s open mic sessions, and individual con-
plans that can offset the cost of registering more out of the way. sultations with agents, editors and other
for the festival.
seasoned experts. Inside the cool lobby,
From Mexico City, it’s a 4-hour drive. people meet and compare notes. As Susan
My first literary festival experience was The closest airports are Leon, Gua- Page, executive director of the Festival
in 2003, in Paris, hosted by the legendary najuato and Querataro, which require a says, “Above all, it is the conversations
bookstore, Shakespeare & Company. My 1- to 2-hour drive to SMA. Shuttles cost between sessions that are sometimes the
biography, “Kafka’s Last Love” had just around $50-$60 roundtrip. But once you most important part of all.”
been published in the US, and I was invited

Wine Dine & Travel Spring 2014 89